Saturday, September 03, 2011 - Her main-course navarin of lamb was another long-cooking classic. Instead of the usual lamb neck, the head chef Matt Christmas dished up tranches of rump and shoulder. The rump was a delicate, virginal, lambkin's-ear pink, sublimely textured, while the shoulder was a tougher, sterner, altogether more grown-up cut; it had clearly been braised for several years in white wine, chicken stock, and rosemary, then finished off with some kind of roux. The pair offered a brilliant contrast, as if you were eating both mother and daughter in the same dish. My risotto nero with sea bass was an amazing sight - the beautiful red-orange fish pertly arrayed on a miniature island of blackened rice, it resembled a fascinator at Ascot.