Chez Bruce

2 Bellevue Road, Wandsworth Common, London, SW17 7EG - View on a map
Telephone: 020 8672 0114

Chez Bruce Restaurant In London
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Overall 8.8
Food 10.0
Service 9.0
Atmosphere 8.0
Value 8.0
Based on 1 reviews

what the critics say

The Independent

John Walsh - 11/15

Saturday, September 03, 2011 - Her main-course navarin of lamb was another long-cooking classic. Instead of the usual lamb neck, the head chef Matt Christmas dished up tranches of rump and shoulder. The rump was a delicate, virginal, lambkin's-ear pink, sublimely textured, while the shoulder was a tougher, sterner, altogether more grown-up cut; it had clearly been braised for several years in white wine, chicken stock, and rosemary, then finished off with some kind of roux. The pair offered a brilliant contrast, as if you were eating both mother and daughter in the same dish. My risotto nero with sea bass was an amazing sight - the beautiful red-orange fish pertly arrayed on a miniature island of blackened rice, it resembled a fascinator at Ascot.

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I was at Chez Bruce on Dec 31 which was wife’s birthday, a most pleasant venue I had rarely frequented on the grounds of it being less than half a mile away from Chez Moi. I was nearly able to swim down the road in the rain and the local ducks waved merrily, their favourite weather.

The set menu had no less than eight choices for each of the three courses, which I regard as excellent (£32.50, brilliant in a Michelin star venue). But the best way to get killed in places of this genre is the wine list which featured some fairly humdrum Burgundies and Rhone like Crozes Hermitage at staggering prices of between £65-£75. This is unreasonable. Far from unreasonable were the Bellinis, which we hoovered up with enormous relish.

Considerations of frugality and lightness of libation lead me inevitably to Burgundy rather than ageing Clarets but I still found everything quite ridiculous on the wine list until I came across a Cabernet Franc from the Loire (Touraine). All Australian Shiraz and Cab Sauv had been dismissed out of hand as being quite absurd almost by definition, as well as being conducive to headaches, and if you gamble with Italians you’d be wiser to attend a casino. Preposterously, they even had Swiss wine in the Carte des Vins but a three figure sum for an indifferent bottle from Tobleroneterre would have been like setting fire to Francs. Not that Swiss wines are bad, on the contrary, but they do not travel well and the currency virtually prevents it.

However, the delightful little Cabernet Franc number was much lighter than any Cabernet Sauvignon as one might expect, yet it was subtle, incredibly fruity and brilliant with the lièvre and boudin blanc, etc., along with pork. In the dessert section the quince was absolutely impeccable.

The service was first rate with a helpful but not pushy sommelier. A delightful experience.
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THE COLONEL - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 9 stars
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Thursday, January 02, 2014

what the bloggers say

London Eater

London Eater

Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - If I can be quite frank, the meal was ordinary, but this is probably by design. That's not to say that it was bad, far from it, it was a delicious meal, everything was well cooked. But the recipes feel mature, and definitely doesn't come with the flash of younger (hungrier and triendier) restaurants...It's straight up, finger-licking, double portioned French cooking, at reasonable prices, decent service and a charming room. Chez Bruce has aged gracefully into an icon fully deserving its place in the annals of history, but the old guard's definitely still got it.

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