L'Oranger
our review
Whatever happened to the classic Maitre d’s? The ones who embodied the restaurant ethos, who knew the regulars’ names and tastes, who reserved judgement on new faces until dessert and, who would unaccountably bar people entry even if the place was only half full? The characters, in short?
Well L’Oranger still has one. Eric Artieres, for that is his name, glides on soundless wheels up and down his domain, one eye on the staff the other on the tables. Which makes him sound as bug-eyed as JP Sartre, but you know what I mean. He darts out of nowhere, proffering a glass of wine he wants you to try and then shimmers away to drop a joke on a table, or encourage a waiter. You feel you’re his guest.
‘Yes, yes but what about the food?’ you say. Ah well, a Maitre d’ can only operate in this laid back yet professional manner if he knows his chef is doing the business and Chef Laurent Michel certainly is. Hunks of superb foie gras come on an olivewood board, with a line of pepper so neat it looks like it was chopped out by Keith Richards. Fresh figs gape wantonly and you scrape the flesh out and smear it onto the bread with the foie gras. A shot glass of crushed ice, run through with apple juice and a drop of Armagnac, cleanses the palate. With the dish comes a wine so rich and perfectly complimentary I want to take it to meet my parents. Eric’s choice, of course, this man really knows his wines.
A white bowl containing small morel mushrooms, a few chunks of Jerusalem artichoke and deep fried “Cromesquis” of foie gras comes. The waiter pours a thick stream of pure white Jerusalem and globe artichoke soup over until the mushrooms go under, not drowning but waving. A seriously tasty soup and you have to forget the well known after effects of the knobbly tuber and just enjoy it.
A signature dish of the restaurant, Scallop Lutees; a large scallop shell loaded with two scallops and leeks is sealed with pastry and baked in the oven. Cracked open at the table, a mist of flavour gusts out over the fancy napkins. A creamy salmon cake, so light it would float away, if it wasn’t wrapped in a parcel of thin cut salmon, has a bundle of beetroot twigs tied with a chive, leant up against it. It’s all sheer class, classical but not stuffy.
And wild duck comes out with dreamy mash. The breast is perfect, the wild duck dark and packed with flavour. The other components I like but there is a slight burnt taste about, although I can’t pin it down. The gnocchi were the only failure, too rubbery but the wine chosen, Roland la Garde 1999 Premiere cotes de Blaye, was just superb.
Desserts of Fig sable and a coffee millefeuille were just the right weight for two people now loosening their clothing and puffing a bit. Beautifully plated and delicate on the palate, they made a grand ending.
The degustation menu is brilliant; the lunch menu looks remarkable value. I recommend L’Oranger very highly – excellent food and a marvellous atmosphere and service.
Nick Harman - October 2007
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
My reservation had gotten lost between top-table and the restaurant, but the very helpful maitre d' still managed to seat us within minutes of arrival. As every other table was very quickly filled up I think we got lucky. Service was well balanced between attentive and unfussy; the wine suggestions were excellent and well-partnered to the dishes, and cheaper than our initial musings.
We had the menu degustation and, although excellent throughout, make sure you are hungry - every course is both rich and generously proportioned. We had to take a little breather before tackling desert. Fortunately these were light and well-judged after such an extravagant procession of dishes. I still felt stuffed 24 hours later!
Not exactly cheap, but the charming staff, excellent presentation and attention to detail is what fine dining is all about. Next time though, I'll stick to three courses.
Comment on this reader review
David Sutherland
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Monday, April 28, 2008
Six of us dined at L'Oranger, all for the first time, last Saturday (16th February). I have to say that we were all very disappointed to be told at 20:00, that there was no lobster, pigeon or duck available. Whilst reducing the list of starters by 1, this reduced the list of main courses by 3 (approx 30%). On ordering desert, we were informed there was no pineapple available!
Whilst the food we could choose was of good quality, we were left disappointed by the overall experience.
Comment on this reader review
Mike
Overall rating 
Food 6 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 4
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
I have been dining at L'Oranger for many years and eat there a few times each year when time allows. I had the pleasure of dining on Thursday evening for Valentine's day and felt compelled to write about the fabulous experience which can so often be a letdown at restaurants on 14th February.
As always the dining experience was second to none and the service exemplary. It is often difficult to get that right balance between over attentive service and not enough but the staff always seem to find the perfect balance, exceptional given how busy the restaurant was on that evening.
Lucio the sommelier is always adept at suggesting a wine to complement the choice of food... and at all price points which is another plus.
The menu for Valentine's day had something to suit all tastes and also an option of fish or meat for the main course. The bisque with truffles and the salmon for the first two courses were excellent, and the size of the salmon portion almost too much to ensure room was left for main course and desert. We both had the lamb for main, cooked to perfection and beautifully tender. I declined the rich chocolate desert but it certainly was well received by my dining partner and the cheese rounded of a memorable evening.
I would thoroughly recommend L'Oranger to any diner for a special occasion or more regular dining if finances allow! Keep up the superb work Eric & Nordine.
Comment on this reader review
James
Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Sunday, February 17, 2008
I completely disagree with one of the previour review saying that food served was not fresh on Valentines night, I had also diner there with my girlfriend and I had one of the best meal ever. The set menu prie was alright for the quality and quantity offered on the night. I would like to compliment the Chef (laurent michell I think) and I can't wait to return to try the a la carte!!!
Comment on this reader review
Mark
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 9
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Simply Perfect!!!
We went yesterday on Valentine's and had a perfect evening!
The food and the service so deserves a ichelin star!! I can't believe this restaurant does not have more than 2 Rosettes.
The best Pastry Chef in London in David Pierre!
It can be pricy but you are aware of that when you go.
Comment on this reader review
Anders
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Friday, February 15, 2008
Outstanding. It is the only word to describe L'Oranger. From the moment you set foot inside to the moment you leave. We went last night and had the valentine's set menu. I am often wary of restaurants producing a set menu on such occasions as the quality sometimes slips. Not here.
The pumpkin and chestnut veloute was full of flavour, but was upstaged by the most incredible smoked salmon in a nest of celeriac and green apples which came with a lime juice gravy - simply incredible.
Lamb tenderloin followed and was cooked to perfection. The sweet goat cheese and dry apricots were wonderful. The menu was completed with a delious dark chocolate pudding which was rich, sharp and light.
The service in this restaurant was exceptional. Attentive yet unobtrusive. The waiters were knowledgable about the menu and were very gracious in accepting the compliments that were coming from a number of tables. I have never seen so many diners call waiters to the table simply to compliment the chef.
This restaurant is an absolute gem. We had a wonderful evening and cannot wait to return.
Comment on this reader review
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Friday, February 15, 2008
We just came back from Valentines dinner at l'Oranger and was not really what we were expecting and that was quality fresh cooked food/ingredients and top service for £76.00 plus drinks and service per head. What we actually got was a below average food/set meal, that had obviously already been prepared earlier! Certainly some of the meal tasted as though it had been reheated and NOT fresh! We know that this is the busiest night of the year in the restaurant trade when they can charge top money and actually do very little when it comes to the food, as every diner has the same, to my mind it should be much easier than on any other night for the chef as I would imagine it would be a lot more work/effort when the chefs have to cook everything fresh to order for a restaurant full lof diners ordering different meals! I truly believe they have a do not give a damn attitude on Valentines in many restaurants and its about maximum profit least amount of effort give the customers a free rose and see them on their way!!
Comment on this reader review
Sharon
Overall rating 
Food 2 | Service 2 | Atmosphere 2 | Value for money 0
Thursday, February 14, 2008
I took 11 friends for dinner at L’Oranger a few weeks back. We meet two or three times a year to “eat out” in various restaurants across Europe so our expectations are high. L’Oranger did us proud and I would rate our meal in the top three of all those eaten to date.
The build up to the meal had been an enjoyable experience. I chose L’Oranger mainly because of all the positive reviews that I had read. I wanted a top-class but unpretentious restaurant with private dining facilities. The location cannot be faulted and the restaurant itself is very welcoming. Nordine, front of house, happens to be from the same part of France in which I used to spend my teenage summer holidays – so conversation was easy and a trip down memory lane. Yoko organised the evening effortlessly, and Lucio, the sommelier, was as erudite as he was passionate about his wine. To accompany our menu dégustation, he recommended a versatile Chablis and Aloxe Corton (domaine Claude Chevalier), and a sweet Italian red to go with the foie gras – all were remarkable.
The food itself was out of the top drawer. I particularly liked our starter, a creamy soup of Jerusalem and globe artichokes with a “cromesquis” of foie gras, and the first desert, a blood orange and lemon confit topping a caramel ice-cream and vanilla and cinamon mousse. Others thought the scallops and steamed leeks, with truffle and Jurançon sauce stole the show. The only disappointment was a Caribbean chocolate soup served as second desert. Its decoration of compote of carrots with cardamom carrots and tropical sorbet was a desert in itself. A rich, pungent coffee and mignardises rounded off a great occasion.
This was a great meal, ably and discretely served by our dedicated waitress in the private dining room on the lower ground floor. If the “à la carte” menu upstairs has another few jewels on it, then, surely, the Michelin star will come home to roost.
Merci. L’Oranger!
Comment on this reader review
Michael Jones - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Monday, November 26, 2007
We have been to L'oranger a few times now and would recommend it to anyone. The service is incredible; we felt as if the maître d' spent all night just looking after us, despite the fact that the restaurant was fully booked.
The food and the wine were both spectacular.
Comment on this reader review
Sip
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
I hope l'Oranger never get their Michelin Star back. This place is a charm and is not pretentious and difficult to book as the likes of Petrus, Gordon Ramsay, Gavroche, etc.
The food was fabulous. Classic french dishes made with applomb and panache. The wine list extensive if a bit expensive. But I told the somelier that I was after something warm and spicy, like a Rhone fare and he recommended a wonderful Gigondas to us. He took his time to explain and share his passion about this wine and we really appreciated that.
On top of that, he also let us tried a couple of white (before the Red was ready) which was fabulous but we didn't know we actually had to pay for them.
In any case, to finish off the evening, we had a selection of cheeses which were just divine with the rest of the Gigondas.
All in all, a wonderful experience and I would highly recommend over any of the 2 stars French fare that dots London
Comment on this reader review
JHon
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 8
Monday, October 22, 2007
