Launceston Place
our review
Just a short distance into its reopening and Launceston Place has already been visited by the big and small critics; the Jans, the Terrys, the Fays and the AA’s have all been in and their reviews have crossed the spectrum from the cheerfully encouraging to the frankly offensive. So it’s with some anticipation that we did lunch in this restaurant whose history has been one of entertaining the aristocracy with ever decreasing quality of food and service. Decreasing that is until DAND took it over and spruced it up no end with fresh moody paint, comfortable chairs and banquettes and a range of art on the wall. They also installed young chef Tristan Welch, recently head chef of renowned Petrus, into the kitchen that runs the length of the place under the floor.
From here Tristan is turning out food that blends seasonal British with classic French. An amuse of a clear spherical glass containing carrot puree under coriander foam is drunk like a cappuccino, so that the carrot picks up the coriander as it passes through. The real starter comes from the a la carte; a roasted chunk of duck foie gras awash in a small sea of rhubarb compote and elderberry ‘soup’. The foie gras is gloriously wobbly inside its caramelised shell and blends beautifully with the early forced English rhubarb and the aromatic elderberry. Another foie gras starter, from the set lunch menu this time, has the luscious liver chilled to virtual solidity and then chopped to matchsticks and scattered over a salad featuring baby carrots cooked in carrot juice and so thin they could be a supermodel’s legs.
Sea Bass with warm spring cabbage and green tomato salad is the best bass I’ve eaten this year and possibly last year too, It isn’t just that it is cooked perfectly with excellent crispy skin, it also looks wonderful shimmering with a range of golden hues. The spring cabbage, a real British seasonal treat, is al dente enough to contrast with the fish but also slippery with delicious juices. The green tomato adds extra crunch plus a wafting sour note that livens up each forkful. A bit of foam on the plate is the only thing I care less for, never having liked that effect on the plate whatever the claims made for the effect on the palate.
Crispy suckling pig with broccoli and wild celery does what it says on the menu. The pig isn’t so crispy that each knife cut sends shrapnel flying across the table, as happened to me last week at another place, but instead gives a forkful with a range of great textures and taste. Small jersey royals lurk inside the broccoli adding more seasonal pleasure and what appears to green pea puree decorates the plate with cute comet trails.
A pre dessert of hollowed out eggshells packed with the crème from a crème brulee and topped with chopped hazelnut, is fun and served in antique silver eggcups. Then comes a selection from the small but perfectly formed British/Irish cheese board, including a very good affine goats cheese. Finally a good old rhubarb crumble and custard, that features a bit too much ginger, and warm potted Valrhona chocolate, oat porridge, bay leaf ice cream that sounds more interesting that it actually was. Throughout wines by the glass were well-chosen and interesting and overall, despite the slightly dissonant effect of fine dining in a building that still, under its makeup and elegant and refined service, cries out ‘I’m a pub!’ this was a very good meal indeed. Recommended.
Nick Harman - April 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
We went to the Launceston Place for my birthday and expected a lovely evening. The food was delicious however what a dreadful service. We had made a reservation for 9 o'clock and our table was not ready when we arrived. This can happened however it took them 30 minutes to have it done. But this was not a major issue considering that we waited one hour to get our starters (and only after I complained to a waiter were our dishes served), an additional our to get our main and another additional hour to get our desert. As we were fed up with waiting, we asked for the bill at the same time we ordered the desert. And believe it or not they arrived with the bill and the card machine before we even got the desert on our table!! (20 minutes before to be fair). We were apparently the only table to edpereince this kind of problems as other parties that had arrived more than 1h30 after us ordered desert at the same time as us! This kind of problem can ahppened in busy restaurants, however what I found really rude was that nobody apologise at all and for this there is no excuse. It is a pity that the staff was so rude as starters and main were amazing, but honestly we did not appreciate it because we had waited too long. I honestly don't recommend the Launceston Place.
Comment on this reader review
Capucine
Overall rating 
Food 8 | Service 0 | Atmosphere 4 | Value for money 0
Monday, June 30, 2008
A much needed makeover has lifted this place from the dull to the sophisticated - almost too sophisticated for this quiet Kensington backwater, which used to be frequented by local ageing grandees. Diners' average age has dropped significantly. The food is fabulous and just manages not to be too over-the-top on presentation. We won't bother repeating what other diners have expressed quite adequately, BUT beware when you book... they're still trying to create an air of elite "not sure if we can fit you in but we'll do you a special favour!!" tone. Living locally, this has happened twice now, and, on driving/walking by later, the place has only been half full. Though, as they style themselves a "destination restaurant", I suppose they imagine in-comers won't catch them out on this one, and will be hugely grateful to be let in.
Comment on this reader review
M & D, London W8
Overall rating 
Food 8 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Thursday, June 26, 2008
We had dinner at Launceston Place on Sunday June 8 and enjoyed the meal fully. The meal was extraordinary and absolutely exquisite in every tiny detail. Surprising yet perfect combinations. Our only regret is that we did not take the full taste menue. Next time though we definitely will! The service was attentative and friendly. If you are in London and want to have a good meal - this is where you want to go. Thank you Launceston Place!
Comment on this reader review
Ann and Anders
Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
We came here on saturday night as a party of 6. It was lovely - we were incredibly well looked after. The tasting menu was fabulous and well matched with the wines, although we weren't sure we agreed with the duck foie gras in rhubarb paired with a sweet white wine. A definite highlight was the Tamworth sucking pig, I still drool over the thought of it.
Service was unobtrusive and friendly. The tasting menu was incredible value at £48 - Go, before they start charging Michelin prices.
Comment on this reader review
- View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 10
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
My pet hate is to be disappointed by food served at restaurants with some reputation. I know 'reviews' are usually of no significance too (and here I am writing one!). I never trust people who rave about Nobu, Zuma and the like. Launceston Place was a pleasant surprise, perhaps especially because I wasn't expecting anything. My favourite place in London being Racine, I don't like food being too fussed over with. Sauce must be simple and texture and flavours of the ingredient well looked after. Easier said than done. This place scored quite high on those front. Service was warm and casual if a bit slow. A minor point noted was that the presentation of food was a bit fiddly (scallop shell precariously balanced on a wooden plank, amuse bouche in a cup a bit awkward to drink from etc.) All said, I will definitely be coming back to make sure they kept it up.
Comment on this reader review
Akiko
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 8
Friday, May 16, 2008
My boyfriend and I had a lunch reservation for 12:00 noon, we were running late and called to try to extend the time, a friendly voice answered and told us when the kitchen would close, we should relax. We arrived to a pleasant welcome, the food was great, the service very good. The best part was getting the little chocolate bag when leaving.
I reccomend this place for treating that special someone
Comment on this reader review
Donna-Maria - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Monday, May 12, 2008
Visited the restaurant recently on the night of my partner's Birthday and even though the weather was cold and wet we were soon made to feel warm and welcome! The set menu although limited, had ample choice for both our tastes.
Given that our visit was on a wet November Monday the restaurant was pleasantly busy with a lovely ambience. The staff were most attentive throughout and the food was excellent, even compared to much more expensive establishments! The souffle was to die for and both of us enjoyed that. The "icing on the cake" was dessert, although not actually a Birthday cake, was special.
Looking forward to our next visit in January.
Graham A Smith
Derby
Comment on this reader review
Matos - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Amazing offer and wonderful food. The restaurant had the special offer menu at our table so we didnt have to explain. Its a quiet simple if a touch classy place. Food excellent, wine awesome and great service. Thats all i ask for. We are looking forward to returning as soon as possible.
Comment on this reader review
Nick Crispin
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 9
Thursday, November 08, 2007
So, some people think Launceston Place is "appauling". Would it also be "atroughcious", or even "horrable"? Actually, I can understand some don't like this place. These must be the same people who like eating at Gordon Ramsay's, i.e. wasting their dollars on an overrated, expensive, and much talked-about "dinner experience", feeling reassured by TV commercials featuring the chef selling just about anything. But Launceston Place isn't on TV, never will be. So let appauling patrons avoid it altogether, everybody will feel better about it.
Comment on this reader review
Castorp
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Well, unlike the previous review, I thought the service was very good indeed. Good food, good value, good atmosphere and a very attentive waiter. Enough said!
Comment on this reader review
BB - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Thursday, March 15, 2007
