Ken Lo's Memories of China
our review
China couldn’t be in the news more at the moment. At the time of writing all eyes are on Beijing for the start of the Olympics, there’s a Chinese chef show on TV and plenty of talk about a reappraisal of Chinese cooking so often over shadowed by Indian Nouvelle. Funnily enough though, it’s the classic dishes that are in the news and few do it better than Memories of China.
This is one of two restaurants created by the late Ken Lo, who I am ashamed to say I tend to confuse with Ken Hom who is very much still alive. Ken Lo started this restaurant around thirty years ago and yet it seems as fresh and contemporary inside as any restaurant opened this year and I’m told the chef has been in charge here almost as long. It’s big, with lots of tables and private rooms and it’s busy. Well heeled locals seem to use it as a takeaway and I can only envy them as my purse wouldn’t stretch to taking much away from here more than once a month, if that. Not that I am arguing about the price, for this level of quality and consistency it’s perfectly reasonable.
It’s a big menu as you might expect, but while reading it there are rather superior prawn crackers on every table to keep you happy. There is probably little on the menu that you haven’t seen before and if you’re in any doubt the smooth and friendly staff are right there to help out. What’s important is that these old favourites are being turned out to a much higher standard than is usual in London.
Staff are smooth and efficient, water was brought quickly and a lime slice dropped in the glasses. Okay, a simple thing but I like it. I also liked, pretty much adored, Three Spiced deep fried Squid that was salty and tender and perfectly cooked, as was the famous soft shell crab. Too often when I order this I find the crab seems mysteriously absent from inside a soggy batter shell, but here it had all the delicacy it’s supposed to have. Crispy deep-fried smoked chicken had a flavour curiously like eating smoky bacon crisps. But that was okay as I used to love those things when I was a lad. Steamed dumplings were so hot we had to give them a while to cool down, but were worth it; delicate little parcels packed full of juicy prawn.
With the current problem with ovens, even Ken Lo can’t rustle up Peking Duck without a days notice so we tried Mongolian barbecue of lamb in lettuce as a substitute. Similar in concept to the duck, but without the pancakes, it’s was a ‘make your own mouthful’ dish of crispy lettuce, cucumber, shredded spring onion, hoisin sauce and beautifully tender chunks of lamb. It’s become my new favourite Chinese dish, but I don’t know if you can get it anywhere else but here.
Iron plate sizzling seafood was the only disappointment as it came to the table not sizzling at all. This may have been my fault as I did ask for a breather and possibly the dish was about to be sent and so had to sit and cool. Apart from its temperature, and lack of drama, it was fine but not outstanding. Sautéed monkfish with asparagus and dried chilli was far better, with the fish very well partnered by the spikiness of the chilli.
Obviously we had rice, which was the right stickiness for eating with chopsticks, and with a bottle of Chilean Chardonnay that was surprisingly good for the low price, the whole meal really hit the spot and proved that classic Chinese food can be so much better than the local takeaway has often led us to believe. I definitely took away good memories from Ken’s smart and efficient restaurant.
N.H. - August 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
After a long trip out of town for the day we were graciously accommodated for dinner. It was excellent. The salt and pepper lobster for a starter was superb. The crispy duck is always just that with no fat.We ordered customized vegetables in oil that were fresh. The shanghai noodles were perfect. We asked for fresh cut cfruit for dessert. It was allexactly ripe-(mangoes,pineapples, melon etc). The relaxing evening was perfect after a stressful day
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Andrew Nelson - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 9
Wednesday, December 05, 2007
I went here with my partner for a birthday meal. I really cant fault this place, my partner and I went for the set menu, this gave a great selection of dishes to try, all very tasty and well presented. You do get a large amount to eat with the 4 courses, and I dont understand why people are complaining about the size of the portions in the recent reviews. Too much is better than too little!. The 12.5% service charge is optional, and you will find most restuarants in London have this optional charge added to your bill. The service is exceptional, the atmosphere is very relaxing. The only thing I could say that could be improved in regards to atmosphere is that there is no background music.
( The chicken satay salad starter is an absolute delight).
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Kirsty
Overall rating 
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Saturday, June 09, 2007
I've been going here for years and i've always loved it. The staff are adorable, efficient and always remember you; the re-fit it had a few years back is tasteful and pleasant to eat in and the food is always delicious....what's not to like? (ok, maybe the prices).
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ems - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 6
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
You have to know what to choose -- but if you do (stuffed courgettes, salt and pepper sole, scallops with house sauce, egg-battered garlic chicken) you will never be disappointed. Service can vary but the long-serving members of staff are among the best in London. It can be expensive, especially if you stray on the wine list. But the standard has been consistently good for the past 15 years in my experience.
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Edwards
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 8
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Disappointing! The food was average, with too much fried food in the set menu. The quantity of food in the set menu was huge - no way that even a decent eater like me could finish it. I would highly recommend that they reduce the quantity and the price!
On top of the huge bill, they added a 20% service charge. How is that justified?
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Overall rating 
Food 5 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 2
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
This restaurant is very famous in London, so I tried last weekend with my friends. However, it makes me very disappointed. The food is so so, which is not good as we expected; the portion is small compared with the price they charge. Besides, I don't think the staffs are well-trained, who have less experience how to delight the customers.
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Tim
Overall rating 
Food 3 | Service 2 | Atmosphere 3 | Value for money 2
Saturday, May 06, 2006
First visit and I enjoyed it. Fortunately my friend had eaten here many times and so I avoided what could have been a very expensive meal by going for the set menu - which you can mix and match with other items if some don't take your fancy.
While still quite pricey, I could have rolled out of the restaurant I was so full.
Don't have too high expectations, expect a pricey bill and you'll have a good time. The locality has a superb array of shops and bars, so it's nice to visit.
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James
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 7
Monday, April 10, 2006
Good night out with my boy friends .
Best Chinese in town
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Gianina Zugravu
Overall rating 
Food 6 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 5
Thursday, March 16, 2006
