The Phoenix

it is hard to find the entrance to the large bleached villa. Eventually I recognised a familiar face in a blazing jumper, beckoning me around the corner, through a discreet door. Inside: a small bar and a topography of tables meeting Christine Keeler chairs. Fairy lights twinkled by the coveted terrace. A dramatic art collection lines the walls. I am faced with what initially looks like a dislocated parachutist moments from his death; his shoot somehow landed before him. Appetising.

Franco Taruschio lends a tangible Italian influence via Head Chef Roger Brook, his Sous at the Walnut Tree Inn, Abergavenny.

Gordon Ramsay famously televisually savaged that controversial venue four years after it changed ownership.

It eventually closed, rising from the bitter embers this year under ‘distinctive’ Irish chef, Shaun Hill (Glasshouse). Part of the rejuvenation includes a tirade of ‘@’ symbols on its menu.

Back in Putney, after clinking Cornish oysters, and then glasses of pomegranate prosecco, crisp, simple antipasti arrived. Breasoalo was ‘ruddy’ good, accompanied by a cross-section of artichoke. Softened asparagus with imminently runny egg was lightly seasoned and sprinkled with Parmesan. A lunar landscape of Vitello Tonnato, correctly chilled and studded with capers, lacked sufficient salty tuna intensity. Rumours of an oxtail ravioli failed to materialise...

The best part of the meal by far was the Vincisgrassi Maceratesi, described by one critic as ‘a veritable Maserati of pasta’. This almost corruptly creamy lasagne was filled to the brink with wild mushrooms, truffles and Parma ham. A Taruschio authored dish with eighteenth century roots. Sticky swordfish was overpowered by a clotted tomato ragu: meaty and correct, but more fuel then thrill – I forget how boring this dish generally is.

To culminate, a pudding which made me nervous. I remember little other then the fact it rolled around my mouth like latex. Not that I regularly suck on latex (or would wish to).

Overall, whilst the building is far from cosy and the décor a little IKEA, the food carried a strong element of honesty: reassuring, traditionally combined flavours collaged from excellent ingredients. Incidentally, as well as there being issues with art, some of the signage is awkard. The disabled loo sign, for example, features two people, one on crutches, his friend in a wheelchair. Maybe this is the aftermath of the parachute incident?
Comment on this reader review

Douglas Blyde
Overall rating
Food 7 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 8
Tuesday, June 10, 2008

After going to eleven abingdon road (which we really enjoyed) and finding out that the phoenix is owned by the same owners my wife and myself decided to take some friends there for lunch who live locally. i have to say we really enjoyed ourselves!!! the food was a delight, staff lovely and knowledgeable and a delight to sit outside...especially since the summer still hasnt fully started!!!!! i would surely recommend the phoenix!!
Comment on this reader review

Mr. Stuart McWilliams
Overall rating
Food 7 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Monday, July 16, 2007

Service was poor, slow and unfriendly. Food was average quality and hugley overpriced.
Comment on this reader review

Overall rating
Food 4 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 2
Monday, June 18, 2007

Service was poor, slow and unfriendly. Food was average quality and hugley overpriced.
Comment on this reader review

Overall rating
Food 4 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 2
Monday, June 18, 2007

Service was poor, slow and unfriendly. Food was average quality and hugley overpriced.
Comment on this reader review

Overall rating
Food 4 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 2
Monday, June 18, 2007

Some rather harsh reviews on here - we eat at the Phoenix regularly and it's a very good restaurant. Food is really excellent - particularly recommend the Dorset oysters and the lasagne with truffles (cooked to a 17th century recipe). Only criticism is that the service does struggle when they are busy; they do tend to err on the side of too few waiting staff, which can be a shame.
Comment on this reader review

Martin - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 6 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Friday, December 29, 2006

I eat at The Pheonix a lot and can tell you that this restaurant has always been an absolute delight. Staff are wonderful (Very Important!), food is always different and great, location is very easy to park and near to where I live. If I had one complaint, it would be that the restaurant can get busy and becomes very jolly! So no quiet business meetings, but fun girls nights out!
Comment on this reader review

Yvonne Wake
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 9
Sunday, December 10, 2006

I do not understand what some of the other reviews are on about - I think this is the fifth time I have eaten here. The service is always friendly - food is really delicious - the set menu is very reasonable. I will return.
Comment on this reader review

LJ - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Very good atmosphere.excellent menu and wine.Waiters are very friendly but the service is a little bit slow
Comment on this reader review

Ronald mc Donald
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 6 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 8
Wednesday, November 01, 2006

This place went through an odd phase during the summer and I agree that it was really poor-for instance receiving your wine when you are almost done on your main course! But, I think its improving, went in on Monday night and had a good meal with excellent service. The food was very nice, monkfish was superb but portion was small. Would I go back again? Yes, i think they are turning a corner.
Comment on this reader review

Alan
Overall rating
Food 7 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 6
Wednesday, November 01, 2006