Le Gavroche

A 'snowday' off meant I could take advantage of the famed £50 lunch so why not. Well, unfortunately, much lauded as it is, the £50 menu just didn't appeal all that much on this day, so we ended up a la carte anyway, so I could have gone ages ago and in the evening for the same cost! Nevermind, there was something peculiarly enjoyable about eating a la carte at lunch. The price was in line with the other 2*s, not more expensive as I had believed, though the format is individually priced dishes rather than the usual fixed menu, so it does have the potential to go up a notch.

Food was very good, but very rich, much less fussy than at the other 2*s which is a good thing IMHO. There were less extras than in many other places, but what there was was well chosen-every fancy place in London has some sort of foie gras mousse as part of the appetisers it seems, but this was a good example, not too rich and on an oaty biscuit for a great texture comparison. Also very good was smoked red mullet with horseradish cream, the smokey flavour working well on mullet, and the cream with just a hint of horseradish to set it off. I had the famous soufflé suisses for my first course proper which was immense though artery clogging, the actual soufflé very light, almost savoury meringue-like, but the cheese sauce very creamy and heavy but in a good way, the flavour was so intense, you could see why it has been on the menu for 30odd years. For main I had halibut in a rich red wine sauce- a combination which worked very well. The halibut was seared on the outside to give a crispy texture, but the fish was perhaps the tiniest bit overdone, but only the tiniest bit. On the plate with which to mop up the excellent sauce was some extremely smoth pureed potatoes, the almost nursery food texture a simple pleasure. We had no need for dessert at lunch, and they weren't so tempting as to override that. Petit fours were ample and good, especially a little lemon sponge that was still warm and an excellent chocolate ganache. Coffee was replenished constantly from a silver jug which was a small but nice touch-no having to ask.

The wine list was not a bargain but more reasonable than I'd expected (eg very pleasant wine from the maconnais at £5 a glass, £25 a bottle unheard of in other restaurants of this level). The problem with it was its size plus the fact they don't have it online meaning theirs no time to go through it if like me you prefer to make your own choice rather than leave it to the sommelier. Thats how I ended up getting a bottle of the wine I'd had by the glass as it was pleasant and relatively cheap. Next time I'll ask for the list to be e-mailed to me in advance.

Service was good as expected, the whole set up is very old school, am pretty sure this is the first time I've had a main from under a silver dome! Lots of silver cruets and cutlery, jacketed waiters, lots of staff, it can be a bit fussy but here it worked fairly seamlessly. I quite enjoyed the old school clubby approach, the only thing that was a step too far into the past (alongside the jacket for men dress code, which I happened to meet only as I had been planning on going to work) was that one menu was for the man with prices and one for the woman without, leading to the bizarre situation of my friend and I being asked who is the man! To finish they have a great drinks trolley with a massive selection of Armagnac calvados and cognac-I don't know why more restaurants do it as it looks so appealing, they must upsell much more by having it out so visibly. We had an 85 armagnac which was delicious, and actually no worse value than it would have been in a bar, possibly better than in a decent bar, at £15 a generous glass.

Because the food is extremely rich yet at the same time less elaborate than its competitors at the top end (I'm sure constructing the rich sauces is elaborate and time consuming, but on the end plate there aren't too many elements) this is my favourite of the 2*s I have tried. You certainly couldn't eat this sort of food often, but I would definitely go back. As far as value is concerned, well its cheaper than eating this kind of food in Paris, not even taking into account the cost of the eurostar!
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Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Saturday, January 09, 2010

Well tonight was the night that I had the opportunty to visit the restaurant that I have always admired from afar and to be totally honest I was sorely disappointed!

I have been in the very fortuitous position of having the opportunity to eat in a number of fine dining establisments in and around London and sadly the Gavroche would not make my top 5 despite the fact that I really wanted it to!

We tackled the tasting menu with wines and only one dish blew me away - the foie gras starter. Given it was the opening dish as I am sure you can imagine, I thought that I was in for a fantastic night but sadly it all went downhill from there

1: Foie Gras - Simply stunning - a wonderful dish

2: Yellowfin tuna - beautifully fresh but ... that was about it

3: Langostine & pigs trotter - overpowered by the allegedly 'subtle' mustard dressing

4: Sea Bass - Lovely dish but nothing exceptional

5: Cheese souffle - I now understand why this dish has been on the menu for so long - light & fluffy but heavy on flavour - beautiful

6: Venison - Beautifully cooked but again nothing out of the ordinary

7: Cheese board - One word 'enormous'

8: Tarte Tatin - Average

Now please don't get me wrong this is a wonderful restaurant with an amazing heritage but I had high expectations given my previous experiences and I was sorely let down. I won't be rushing back

The food at the Square far exceeds the cooking at the Gavroche as to does its sister restaurant the Ledbury (certainly one to watch for the future).

Sorry Mr Roux Jr - I really, really wanted to come away totally amazed but sadly walked away disappointed
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Karl M
Overall rating
Food 7 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 7
Friday, December 04, 2009

Wow. One of the very best dining experiences i have had. The food was just fantastic and the service was a rare mix of being highly attentive but not obtrusive.

We had the tasting menu with matching wines and I would definitely recommend this - the pairings of the dishes with the wines bringing the best out of both. Foie gras with a Gewurztraminer was a highlight.

It was all great but langoustines with pigs trotters worked brilliantly and some simply treated sea bass showed off the quality of the fish.

I had been looking forward to this for ages and my only concern was that with a fairly formal dress code the atmosphere would be a bit stuffy. Shouldn't have worried. It felt really relaxed and the atmosphere was one of one people enjoying themselves which is not always the case at Michelin starred restaurants.

And if you have the tasting menu, don't go overboard when the bread basket comes round as the 8 courses need a proper appetite!

Not cheap, but will remember this for a long, long time - worth the money. Go.
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hungry viking - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Friday, December 04, 2009

Some things in life just have to be experienced to understand and appreciate them and Le Gavroche is one of those things, I can only describe the food as awaking from a food coma..it is life changing. The service and atmosphere are like meeting with old friends, no sense of awkwardness, you are treated like the most important person in the room and with absolute respect.

It is perfection personified.
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Mike Donovan & Angela Appleton
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Monday, November 30, 2009

still the best lunch in london but book very well in advance !

of course in the set lunch there are no delicacies like lobster or gooseliver but great French dishes and always a choice of three items

and Le Gavroche does offer the cheese trolley in the set lunch without any supplement - bravo M Roux !

great service also for the included wines and a second coffee offered
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londonfreak - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Thursday, November 26, 2009

I would recommend this restaurant without hesitation. The welcome and service were outstanding, without any hint of stiffness. Formality with friendliness and attention to detail.

We had the exceptionnel menu at £150/head which included seven courses, each with its own specially selected wine. The highlight of the evening for me was the magnificent signature cheese souffle.

The experience was elevated further by the appearance of M. Michel Roux Jr. at our table for a quick introduction.

The only quibble I have with this restaurant and nearly every other eatery in the capital, is the inevitable 12.5% service charge. Although considerable by normal standards, I would have happily offered this amount had it been my choice. The fact that restaurants insist on adding this 'discretionary'/'optional' charge is frankly insulting.

It was such an exquisite evening, that the usual red mist did not settle on receiving the bill, but brought a wry smile to the face.

We will certainly be returning to explore the delights of the a la carte menu.
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Ben - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 8
Wednesday, October 28, 2009

My wife and I visited on Wednesday 21st October and ordered the menu exceptional with accompanying wines. Quite simply I was blown away by the entire experience. It was far and away the best meal I have ever eaten. Each dish was agonising to eat as the portion dwindled on the plate and you realised the taste sensation was soon to be over. I could not eat slowly enough to savour the meal fully. The wines that went with each course were perfectly matched and exceptionally good. I wont bore you with a description of each course, you have to experience it yourself to realise how the cooking has been elevated to an art form.

What I will say, having had tasting menus at other 2 star London restaurants, is that I really felt that Le Gavroche is great value for money. I did not say it was cheap, but I did not feel ripped off in any way. A slight delay in the service of the meat course saw our red wine topped up, unusual but much appreciated. Also portions for the cheese course were very generous, I am used to getting 4 postage stamp sixed morsels of cheese before the waiter whisks the board away, quite the opposite here.

It would be churlish not to compliment the waiting staff, they are fantastic and really add to the overall experience. I truly can't wait to go back.
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James Holden - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Thursday, October 22, 2009

Le Gavroche is an experience! We had a table in a sort of horseshoe box and we were well entertained by the other guests. An upper class English couple with their American guests, the `lord´ said to the American lady something about not watching sex and the city too much. Later on a real Al Capone came in and sat a the booth next to us. Speaking with a husky voice to a woman who could be his daughter and eating only salad. He however was a nightmare for the staff.

The food was great and the two sisters served us with great flair. Going to the washroom is something not to be missed. If you stand up to go there, everybody is pushed quickly aside to make way for you.

We had a lovely time with mouthwatering dishes. It was a pity the chef did not say a small word at all the tables, we wanted so much to thank him for a lovely evening.

However it is very expensive.
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Anne - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 7
Tuesday, September 29, 2009

I find the atmosphere and service at Gavroche to be fully up to Michelin star standard. Frankly, the food leaves much to be desired. I HAVE had some good dishes at Gavroche, but I've also had some real clunkers. In one case a £45 starter that bordered on being sickening, so overly reduced and cloying it was. Other dishes are bland and make you wonder who is actually doing the cooking back there?

I am mystified by the spotty food at Gavroche. Surely world class chef-ery isn't really a secret any longer. And yet their veal with morel mushrooms comes a (very) distant second to the version served round the corner at Trader Vics. Purists will cringe.....but facts are facts....try them both for yourself.

I really wish Gavroche DID serve true Michelin Star quality French food, as it is otherwise a lovely place to spend the evening. But at £350 a couple (with very inexpensive wines) you really would be better catching the Eurostar to Paris and having a MUCH better meal at Les Ambassedeurs (at the Hotel Crillon), among others. It's a shame that London really doesn't have a true, world class French restaurant. Oh well....it's only three hours to Paris!
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Adam Roberts
Overall rating
Food 6 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 3
Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Le Gavroche has long been a restaurant on my radar of places to eat, anyone who is reading this page will doubtless be aware of its great heritage and reputation.

So when an old friend and fellow gastronome flew in from Finland , an opportunity arose for that first visit. There was no particular occasion other than a love of great food (and slimming wallets). My friend has a little professional interest as he's training to be a Sommelier. Our table was booked for 7pm on a Tuesday night. As we neared the restaurant I was actually getting quite nervous : I had already spent the morning hunting for a pair of trousers having realised I'd not packed anything other than blue denim and a cursory search of various reviews revealed that despite them being very nice designer jeans - this would not do.

Boy was I glad I'd made the effort and got those trousers, because I think I would have felt I'd let down the effort put in by the restaurant if I'd turned up ill attired. Entering Le Gavroche is like entering into a cosy hidden den of fine dining. We were led downstairs to the dining room, which I'm sure for some is old fashioned , but it has a classical charm : it's homely, warm and comforting - yet oozes with class. From here on in, it felt like we were now on a gastronomique adventure par excellence. The front of house staff were marvelous and what followed can only be described as an almost balletic like performance. Cutlery arrived, wine was poured, chairs promptly pushed in, napkins folded, food unveiled - it was the very essence of attentive without being intrusive... everyone was polite and friendly.

As for the food ? It is almost a week since eating there and I can still remember every dish and every detail - which is unusual for me, having a brain like a sieve. We already knew that we were going for the Menu Exceptionnel with the accompanying wine (£150 with wine, £95 without). In the first instance the included wine saved us from picking from the tome like wine list - I think there is something like 2000 wines on it - where they're stored I don't know - I suspect an underground nuclear bunker must be below the restaurant itself. The wines were explained and poured by the Sommelier, a very polite and quietly spoken chap he was, and they did not skimp on the wine either. When the first glass was poured it wasn't exactly a lot of wine, but faced with another eight courses it didn't bother me. Of course when they started giving you a top-up here and there, I soon realised that the wine and food were in full-flow. I think generous is a very good word to describe our night - nothing was too much and I felt we were treated like Kings for the evening.

As for the marks: I've looked down the various reviews on this page many times and apart from the odd apparent bad day or lofty expectations , there's a lot of tens across the board - it almost seems like a cliché, but I can't think of anything out of place or that could have been better, so it's all tens for me too.

All-in-all this was probably one of the finest food experiences I've had. The food is exceptional, the service and atmosphere are refined and classy. I simply cannot wait to return here (I would go tomorrow if I could) and have high hopes of a return visit with the better half (she promises she won't ask for the ketchup) as soon as is humanly possible.

Be warned it's an addictive experience.
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grobelaar - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Tuesday, May 19, 2009