Dolada

Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - Though ownership remains the same as Mosaico, the relaunch and name change has been galvanized by the acquisition of chef Riccardo De Pra from his family's one Michelin-starred Ristorante Albergo Dolada in the Veneto...The food just misses being staggeringly good, though some dishes - like that pigeon, ripely gamey, ruby red, enriched with liver and the sticky sweetness of Marsala and served on a slump of perfect polenta - actually get there. Admirably, most of the cheeses and all the salumi are home-made.

Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - The menu has stayed true to the notion of being expense-account expensive but a first course of “traditional” tortellini in brodo featured such ethereal stock, such delicate, yielding, finely filled pasta parcels that the £18 price — about the average for first courses — didn’t seem impossibly difficult to swallow…Wild pigeon with Marsala-braised shallots was served from a copper pan, which was left on the table. The meat, already carved into rosy pink slices, was a triumphant bosky result for a bird that is tricky to get right. We felt almost transported to the slopes of Mount Dolada.