Saturday, June 05, 2010 - Pan-fried wild halibut was sweet and moist, and the accompanying shredded celeriac danced along with tiny St George mushrooms; the only bum note was a superfluity of lobster foam. (Hasn't foam had its day now? Can we please go back to sauce?) Poached and roasted quail wrapped round melting-away foie gras was a rich choice, lifted by braised red cabbage...Chapter One is my top gastronomic find of the year so far. Hats off to Mr McLeish and his talented team. And when I tell you there's currently a Monday-to-Saturday two-course lunch promotion for 14.50 - what are you waiting for?