The Westerly
our review
Reigate may only be about forty-five minutes from London but it’s a world away in style. Here are solid Victorian semis built in a fashion that’s rather unique and a High Street where the big brands have muted their corporate garishness to avoid standing out. Which is a cheap journalistic way of leading up to saying that the Westerly is an outstanding restaurant.
Head chef and owner, together with his Manageress wife Cynthia, Jon Coomb may look like the short-order chef on an oil rig but he cooks like an angel, effortlessly turning out food packed with flavour and interest. Quite how he does it from his tiny kitchen is a mystery, but it must have something to do with his wealth of experience over the years.
The restaurant itself, quietly tucked away around a corner but usefully opposite a large car park, has been discreetly and pleasantly decorated but frankly I’d go here again if they had chipped formica tables and wobbly chairs. The menu is simple but has so many things I desperately want to eat that a return visit is a must. A starter of Croquette of Pig’s Head with Sauce Gribiche sounded a bit frightening, but what appeared was an attractively sized croquette free of any lingering trace of oil. Its crisp exterior crunched open to reveal the shredded head meat tenderly cooked and both pink and moist. This dabbed into the Gribiche sauce (normally shallots, parsley, cornichons, capers, eggs, oil and vinegar) and topped with some peppery rocket leaf, made a great mouthful; varied in texture with the acid bite of the gribiche cutting the pork’s fattiness. So good I happily mopped up every lingering bit with some of the excellent bread. Yes I admit am an unashamed plate licker when the food demands it. Over the table my pal stuffed down a plate of Beetroot and Ricotta Ravioli with poppy seeds and mint and was well satisfied. The ravioli simple in shape but generous in quantity.
Initially tempted by the St John stylee allure of Fricassee of Calves’ Kidneys and Sweetbreads with Broad Beans and Mint, I wavered and went for the Bourride, featuring Monkfish, Red Mullet, Bream, Prawns, Mussels and Clams all from a local supplier. Quite superb it was too, each fish perfectly cooked with the large prawns as plump as could be and the mussels cheerfully gaping to reveal small but fine flavoured meat inside. As to the bourride itself, I slurped down every last drop and could have happily have drunk a pint glass of it for afters. A dish without pretension it achieved perfection. My tablemate, who hates fish, dodged the increasing spray from my side and enjoyed his roast of perfectly pink lamb with Jersey Royals, peas, ventreche (a type of pancetta) and lettuce. The lettuce and peas made it classically French and the slices of lamb, from the local butcher, came in a portion that was easily double what you’d get in London. Okay size doesn’t matter, but you can’t get enough of a good thing.
Desserts of Buttermilk Pannacotta with Caramelised Peaches, and a Plum and Almond tart with Mascarpone, again showed calm restraint, needing no fancy presentation to quietly shine. Westerly’s sensible wine list and offerings by the carafe, made choosing wine easy. All this for, at the time of writing, £19.50 for three courses at lunchtime, must make it the best value this side of France, maybe even this side of the Atlantic. Highly recommended.
N.H. - May 2007
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
I had read reviews of this restaurant and went along with high expectations. I was expecting impecable food, and a friendly atmosphere.
On the whole this restaurant delivered. The food was very good, and the staff we unobtrusive, and helpful.
My journey to this restaurant started when finding a place to take my wife to dinner for our anniversary. Ringing for a reservation I was told that the restaurant was full, but was asked for my name and number so the man could go and double check. I was pleasantly surprised that the man rang me back about 2 minutes later to say he had pencilled me in, as they had a last minute cancellation.
When my wife and I arrvied we were quickly shown to our seat, and given a few minutes to look over the wine menu before being asked if we would like a drink. It was nice not to be treated like an alcoholic who needs a drink as soon as they enter the building.
The one disappointment for me came with the wine list. I enjoy champagne. I have my favourites, but am willing to try anything. I prefer 37.5cl bottles, as it is the perfect size for a meal. They only have 1 type in a 100ml glass (Jean Paul Deville Carte Noir NV), and a few others in 75cl bottles. However when I pointed this out they staff were interested, and even wrote down the two Rose Champagnes I like (Gosset and Billecart Salmon). If they listen and get these in you others better bloody drink them, so they have it when I next go back.
On the subject of Jean Paul Deville Carte Noir NV. This turned out to be a rather nice choice for the menu. It was all two (intentional spelling) drinkable, it had both a sweet flavour, and a pleasant aftertaste.
On to the food, I was expecting one level below Michelin standard, and that is what I got. Pretty hard to fault any of the 6 (combined) course we tried, expecially as the quality of ingredients and the tatses we re consistently good.
Entree
Ravioli - The best way to describe this dish was that the tastes were subtle, and this dish should be enjoyed slowly.
Pickled Mackerel, with beetroot and rocket salad. - The Mackerel came in it's own mini pickling jar. This was a nice touch, and given the taste and tenderness I want to believe that the fish had been pickled in that very jar. The beetroot was mixed with a light sauce which allowed the flavour to come through. The reason for the rocket salad was a bit of a mystery as I think the dsi hwould have been complete with the beetroot, or with another type of pickled wegetable, something very tart to balance the Mackerel.
Main
Char Grilled Rib Eye of Charolais, Triple Cooked Chips, Bearnaise
This steak impressed me, which is pretty hard to do. Unlike so many pieces of beef that sit there, and the first impression you get is the taste, and texture. The first thing I noticed about it was wonderful grilled smell. The taste was beautiful with a depth of flavour only found with exceptional meat treated the right way
I was looking forward to the chips, as I was expecting something along the lines of the ones that Heston makes i.e crunchy and a delicacy. Hoever these were completely different. They were very large, and nicely cooked, but not crunchy. They were more like roast potatoes.
The Bearnaise sauce was on the verge of foam, but had enough liquidity to be tasted when applied to the meat.
Bourride of Monkfish, Red Mullet, Bream, Prawns, Mussels and Clams
The fish was tender, the sauce sweet, and full of flaavour (At least the little bit my wife let me have was nice).
Dessert
Raisin and sherry jelly with crean and ice cream - The cream was the best part of this dish, it was like the perfect Creme Brulee. The raisins hould be soaked in a sweet liquer,as they have picked up too much of the sherry flavour. The ice cream should be replaced by a more rich version as it was a nothing element.
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Michael Joyce
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 10
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Visited for husband's birthday on a midweek evening in January. They are so busy nowadays that a weekend table is rarer than hens teeth!
The whole feel of the place was more casual than I had thought it would be after all the hype.
My pheasant and fois gras pate was one of the best i've ever tasted, a huge portion served in a Kilner jar!, pickled grapes are new to me but were the perfect accompaniment. Hubby had ordered the steak and triple cooked chips but they had run out which was a shame as looked fantastic. I had the bourride which contained perfectly cooked pieces of fish. We shared a pudding between us. Overall reasonably priced for the quality ingredients but pretty,artistically arranged food it is not .
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Yummymummy - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
This is just what Reigate has been crying out for. Fantastically good Mediterranean cooking and a menu that frequently changes so you can go time and time again and always tyr something new.
I had a wonderful Taleggio and Sweet Onion Tart that set me up for a stunning Bourride. A bourride is like a refined bouillabaisse. It is one of my favourite dishes and the one at The Westerly is the finest I have ever tasted. The saffron gives it a rich and deep flavour that makes every mouthful a joy.
Sauternes Custard with blood orange was a fittingly light conclusion and I cannot wait to return. Again. And again....you get the picture!
It's about £30-35 a head which for such accomplished cooking represents excellent value for money.
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Gerry
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Friday, April 27, 2007
