The Scolt Head

Sunday, January 23, 2011 - A grilled Scotch ribeye, with chips, watercress and sauteed mushroom needs the Bearnaise sauce to bring it to life, but what a life it is: the thickly cut chips and medium-rare steak have our eyeballs rolling back towards Highbury. The pan-fried sea bass with crushed potatoes, beans and caper butter is excellent, the fish given a tough, crispy skin against a muscular body; while the roast beef with roast potatoes, carrots, greens, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish and gravy is less distinguished from ordinary pub fare, though not bad at all. But the star of the second course is the cheapest option: a cheeseburger with salad and chips that should send Ronald McDonald back to his drawing board.