Hereford Road
our review
Calling a restaurant after the road it’s located in isn’t the height of originality, about one step up from calling it after the number over the door. Still I suppose it has a ring to it, you can imagine the locals drawling “Let’s go down the Road for supper” which is the level of casual dining the restaurant seems to be looking for.
In a small row of shops The Road, as I shall know refer to it, would be easy to walk past if it weren’t for the fact that the open kitchen is at the front, an attention-grabbing device that works well and which sets out the restaurant’s ethos – simple, straightforward and nothing to hide. Chef Tom Pemberton used to work at St John’s (guess which road that’s in) and is at the controls tonight looking a bit like Hugh Fearnley-Whatsisname but less cuddly. Passing him you drop a few steps, or fall if you’re not careful, into the restaurant proper, a neat little box with an enormous domed skylight.
Tables are close, but not too close, and unadorned with cloths, again I suppose making a point about simplicity. Tonight, even though it’s a Tuesday, it’s profitably full. The menu is solidly, but not stolidly, British and changes each day and is short and focussed, a bit like my dining companion from TopT**le.
He likes his crispy pork, chicory and mustard starter but points out, accurately, that the pork isn’t crispy at all. My smoked eel with bacon, frisee and horseradish is as smoky as a cub scout’s woggle and tender and delicious. Personally I would have liked it served slightly warmer in order to excite the flavour a bit more, but it partners well with the crunchy bacon and the subtle horseradish.
Mains for me are a simple three item dish – pork loin, turnips and black cabbage. The last is a translation of cavolo nero, which makes it sound rather like a Death Metal band. The combination works; the slice of pork thick, but not so that you have to wrestle with it, with a corona of crackling that is just right – friable on the outside and warm and liquid within. The turnips have been braised to collapsing point and are the small and subtle navettes.
Mr TT has ordered the red leg partridge, which the waiter informs us is cooked to order and will therefore take twenty minutes. That’s fine and full marks for telling us. He also warns us it will be cooked rare, “It better be, or I’ll send it back”, says TT only joking but he’s right, an overcooked partridge is better used as shoe leather. When it arrives it’s the whole bird unadorned and sat in a generous puddle of bread sauce with parsnips and watercress on the side. All very Mr Pickwick, even down to the lead shot discovered in one mouthful. TT merrily carves and slices away and describes it as memorable. We’re both happy with our choices, although I look wistfully at an onglet steak with chips and aioli I see going past. Onglet is the best steak bar none and rarely seen in London.
Only one dessert and sadly it’s the only disappointment. An apple and quince pie, which doesn’t taste of quince and is really no better than standard gastro. It is also Rush Me To Casualty scalding hot but I don’t think it was cooked to order so that’s a bit odd.
So that’s The Road. Clean and simple, well priced and at the time of writing fashionable. With its daily changing menu, it’s definitely one to bookmark.
Nick Harman - November 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
This part of W2 is strewn with B&Bs and two star hotels. One of the major advantages of calling the restaurant Hereford Road is the heavy luggage wielding tourists simply have no excuses on figuring the whereabouts of the said road.
I’ve been yearning to visit Hereford Road ever since they opened, but its over-hyped PR put off most of my dining companions. I enjoyed my past experiences at St. John but it started to get too expensive and crowded for the wrong reasons. The daily updated menu on the Hereford Road website suggested that the dishes were keenly priced and equally tempting as the ones found at St.John. A friend was thus duly or rather forcibly dragged here to accompany me on a Sunday Lunch.
For a restaurant to have an open kitchen in line with the entrance can only evoke a degree of confidence with their cooking and expertise. The main dining room was brightly lit by a large circular skylight and the overall ambience was entirely comfy without a hint of stuffiness. The service was efficient and friendly and thankfully never overbearing. That said, this place has no cover or service charge and tap H2O is served automatically, gratis. To my absolute delight, the dining room is also perfect for solo diners.
I was disappointed that Grouse was off the menu, but to my relief Snipe was offered as a starter instead. The starter choices could quite easily leave a lot of diners spoilt for choice, what with Smoked Eel and Bacon, Salt Beef, Brawn and so on. My companion’s Parsley Soup was deemed delicious especially with the superb bread that’s baked in-house. My Snipe and Damson Cheese was as clichés go, an absolute tour de force dish; the beautifully roasted bird (including the long beaked head and brain) was presented with a piece of toast that’s been spread with a pate made from its cavities and a slice of damson cheese (jelly). The result was extraordinary and the tartness of the damson complimented the gaminess of the bird. My mains of Roast Forerib, Runner Beans and Roast Shallots was equally well executed, the beef was pink, tender and rightfully beefy. The mate’s Chicken, Girolles and Lentils was also pretty much heroic, in fact as I’d observed this dish was popular with the other diners in the room. Sides were not ordered, as the portions for the mains were more than generous. The puddings were spot on and no-nonsense. I ended my meal with the decadent choice of Profiteroles and Chocolate Sauce; here the cream is replaced with a superior vanilla ice cream. My now happy companion’s Apple Jelly served with a couple of shortbread was a perfect conclusion to ensure he comes here again.
It’s very difficult to envisage Michelin inspectors visiting a restaurant like Hereford Road, especially with the lack of the following; elaboration on the presentation of its dishes, that dreaded foaming on the dishes, amuse bouches, a supposedly world class sommelier pestering you off the house red. Well not in my books, Hereford Road provides brilliant comfort food, great ingredients and uncomplicated cooking. Sundays, and for that matter Mondays will never be the same without HR. Tom Pemberton, you get all me stars.
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bellaphon
Overall rating 
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 9
Monday, September 01, 2008
My husband of 6 months took me here for a suprise dinner and I cannot say either of us were disapointed. Hereford Road had been recommended to us twice before by friends, the food was very tasty but not over the top, odd or pub-like - the staff were very friendly and made us feel welcome, nothing was to much trouble.
We were sat on the upper floor which was fine but I personally didn't like feeling like we were amongst the kitchen, you can hear everything the chefs say but in saying that you don't really notice it once you're in conversation, but it can be a little distracting.
Overall, I think we will definitely go back, we were impressed, we spent £70 for starters, mains, a couple of drinks each and dessert - we didn't feel cheated and we were happy to leave a tip!
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Hayley
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Monday, September 01, 2008
Meal for three, 3 courses each + 2 bottles of wine = £120 = very good value. Chef is ex St John and meal was as good as anything I have had at either of the St John restaurants and better value. Only thing not as good is the bread - not as good as the St John sourdough. My main course of lamb Sweetbreads, tongue Peashoots, New Potatoes and Mint for £13 is probably the best main course I have eaten all year for the money.
Service very friendly and helpful. Restaurant design is quite sexy.
Only problem is the noise in the downstairs area - all hard surfaces. Try and get a booth or one of the cute seats for two on the upper level.
Will definitely go again - overall one of the best meals out I have had this year (which includes Maze, St John, Galvin, Hix, The Lawn, etc...)
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Peter
Overall rating 
Food 8 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 8
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
This place was a real find. Went for sunday lunch and got off to a good start with a caraffe of tap water brought to the table without being asked if we wanted to be ripped off with bottled water. Why can't all restaurants do this ? Was quiet when we arrived although we were early and the punctual and attentive service reflected this...though it was pretty much full when we left. The menu is simple and there isn't a huge choice but thats not a problem when the food was as good as it was. A reasonable bottle of wine and two courses for two for less than £70 left us wishing there were more local places like this....
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Mark Swift
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 9
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Food and service was good, turned up at 7pm and we were the only ones there, by 8pm it was completely packed. Is 7pm very early ? Am I just getting old?
On the way out, saw several people eating what looked like a big roast leg of something. Looked good. The main chef chap seems to be a bit miserable but I think that might just be the way he is.
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Overall rating 
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Friday, July 18, 2008
Completely disagree with the previous reviewer. This restaurant is great, I just wish I lived nearer to it - would be brilliant to have as a local.
Kitchen staff were friendly and responded to our 'hello' and service was good. Food was great - deep fried sand eels, cockles with cider, veal chop and turbot with samphire - all delicious. A bottle of wine from the higher reaches of the list plus coffee and it still came to only £83 for the two of us. I realise that £83 is still a lot of money but regular London diners will know that unfortunately £50 per head for a decent dinner in London is fast becoming the norm.
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CDE - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 9
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
This restaurant is a perfect example of why a Chef should never open a restaurant all by himself. Yes he might have been a chef at St John’s and yes he might know how to cook but 1 thing he cannot do is manage a restaurant. Generally good chefs are just that, but rarely do you get a good chef who is a good manager! And that’s all this business is about.
I have been in the industry for 10 years and am a very patient, polite and forgiving person when it comes to restaurants. However on this occasion I felt the need to write this and hope that Tom reads and takes note.
When you arrive at the restaurant you feel like you have walked straight into kitchen. There was Tom, grumpy, sweaty and not the best 1st impression you get.
TIP: if you have an open kitchen make sure the chefs all look clean and if someone smiles and says hello greet them back its how the world works, if you want to be a grumpy chef then don’t put yourself on show.
The food was very average, no complaints, but I can’t even remember what I had!
The staff were average but the time it took for the food to come out was long.
There seems to be zero management in this place and it’s a tricky spot at the wrong time, I will give this place 2 years max unless they do something quick.
Thanks.
View/Add comments (1)
Overall rating 
Food 3 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 3 | Value for money 3
Monday, April 28, 2008
Great place, had a beautiful cauliflower soup w/ scallops followed by the oxtail for two. absolutely sublimely cooked and would recommend the place to anyone.
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Will
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 10
Friday, March 28, 2008
A really good night out! Having worked down the road from St.John for several years you notice a lot of similarities (all French wine list, minimalist decor, unfussy British cooking with lots of meat and offal etc.) with Hereford Road, not surprising as the chef used to work there I hear you say......
All I can say is HR is cooler, I enjoyed the food more and overall I would prefer to go here (if I had to choose - both are great).
The menu is very similar, but better - more things I wanted to eat (actually choosing was tough). Salad was very good, lamb was delicious and the blood orange jelly was incredible.
The red leather banquettes and "loveseats" are very cool and the decor and atmosphere is impressive - you really don't want to leave. Service is a little sketchy at times, but very friendly and nothing was too much trouble.
Would go back in a heartbeat. Excellent.
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Coops
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Went a vouple of das ago and it's all I can talk about. Great food, great staff, great atmosphere. What more could I ask for!?! Would recommend this reaturant to anyone who loves proper food, nothing is messed with, no prissy/twiddly bits, just what is says on the tin/menu. Great wine list, meal for two plus wine and a glass of bubbly under a hundred quid!!! Wicked.
Comment on this reader review
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 10
Monday, February 04, 2008
