what the critics say
Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - Unless you've got a business deal to shout about to your three besuited chums or are a group of ladies of a certain age who lunch, you'll need a very good reason to blow big bucks in this grand hotel dining room...The menu du jour goes some way to ameliorate these shortcomings. A top-drawer starter features slow-cooked pig's head and trotters formed into a crisply coated brick and served with a salad of finely sliced celery, sweet prune puree and marinated Agen prunes. A large rabbit leg has been both confited and grilled, rendering the meat a little dry, but a gloriously smooth, bright orange butternut squash puree and delicious Moscatel wine sauce adds the required lubrication.
Thursday, January 20, 2011 - Citrus-cured organic salmon with creme fraiche, beetroot and Aquitaine caviar featured perky, vividly hued lozenges of fish with the root vegetable rendered crisp for textural contrast. Having myself bagged the chicken assembly, it turned out to be unappealing greasy, both in the crumb coating of the egg, the sauteed 'oysters' and the triangles of fried skin...Everything about Roux at The Landau is carefully considered - they could have stopped before the truly weird decision of black napkins for the ladies, white for the men - but despite input from Silvano Giraldin on the wine list it is not, obviously, Le Gavroche.
This is a strange place which, for me, just didn't hit the spot. First problem: the absurd little vestibule where you wait to be seated. As there is only one person on duty here, you can wait for up to five minutes while she seats the people ahead of you, gets their menus, does flicky things with the napkins etc. You can't see the restaurant from here so you have no idea whether anyone even knows you've arrived. Quite bizarre.
Once seated, and waiting for our friends to arrive, we found no one came near us until I loudly told my husband I quite fancied some water. Then a waiter scurried over. Once our friends had got there, it took an age for anyone to take our order. Then the wine list was finally produced. Bread took an age to arrive. All in all, the service is curiously unfocused, although there are lots of waiters and they are all very pleasant, yet somehow lacking in warmth. We were served by about five different people at various stages.
The food is very good - no complaints on that score, except that like most posh restaurants they are bafflingly mean with the vegetables. Our meal took three hours (without teas or coffees at the end) and I left thinking that I would far rather have gone to the Wolseley or Brasserie Zedel, where the food is far inferior but the place has a liveliness and a buzz which I don't think the Lamdau will ever achieve.
Comment on this reader review
Food 8 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 6
Sunday, August 17, 2014
what the bloggers say
Cheese and Biscuits - 5/10
Thursday, February 09, 2012 - I can't ignore that awful pork, so insipid I'd question whether the producer should even be allowed to describe it as Iberico. And neither my friend's Pot au Feu containing chewy, dry beef and so lacking in taste she found herself grinding salt over it in an attempt to find something to enjoy. It was all presented immaculately and I'm sure took years of experience and days of preparation, but it all was curiously missing some vital element - heart? Passion?...It all seemed a bit hotel-restaurant Michelin-by-the-books - solid, professional, dull.
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