The Establishment
our comments
After a long and irritating journey on the District line; we emerged in leafy Parsons Green. The area is full of smart pubs and eateries but nothing quite as slick, or convenient, as The Establishment which is directly opposite the station.
First impressions of this former pub were good. The interior is sophisticated 70s, complete with leather banquettes, beige and chocolate geometric wallpaper, and monochrome prints of British cop show stars. Flashes of chrome, dark wood, and Foscarini glass-bubble chandeliers bring it bang up to date.
The signature cocktails are put together by in-house mixologist Tim Oakley and feature British ingredients like mead, gin and lovage. The Parsons Breeze was a sweet and refreshing blend of pink grapefruit, pomegranate, elderflower and lime juice muddled with Belvedere vodka and plenty of ice. Martinis are served in ice-cold glasses, rims edged with lemon rind – something many of London’s top bars fail to get right.
There’s a dining room and a glass-walled courtyard at the back of the building, but we were seated in the dining area just off the bar. The menu promises ‘rustic, hearty British food with a contemporary twist’ and showcases ingredients like Herdwick mutton, new season asparagus and aged Galloway beef. Head Chef Neil Mackenzie, previously of Richard Corrigan's Lindsay House, clearly has a passion for uncomplicated dishes with strong British flavours.
For starters, my risotto was very well executed. Garden peas and broad beans gave it a vivid green colour, while the Devon crab was sweet and ultra fresh. My dining companion’s free range chicken wings were lightly fried, bitesize and boneless; but the accompanying Scottish scallops were the star – butter-soft, perfectly cooked, and drizzled with a Pedro Ximenez dressing. The wine list features some reasonably priced ‘wine flights’ but we chose from the impressive selection of wines by the glass which start as low as £3.50.
Our mains arrived on fashionably enormous plates, presented with flair but without fuss. Fillet of sea bream was excellent, with crisp skin and moist flaky flesh. Crushed potatoes were a little oily, but the fennel and sweet tomatoes complimented the fish beautifully. Shoulder of lamb was well cooked but served with a strange croquette that was too crunchy to absorb the tasty jus. Portions are very generous - we both struggled to clear our plates, but were still keen to cast an eye over the dessert menu.
There are some traditional yet stylish puddings on offer, as well as a good selection of British cheeses. The chocolate nemesis was a thick slice of chocoholic’s delight, with a texture somewhere between a ganache and a brownie. It was served on a wooden board with a delicate tuile biscuit, sharp raspberry coulis and creamy raspberry ice-cream made on the premises. Even the toasted popcorn was delicious.
Having arrived feeling flustered and dishevelled we left relaxed, well fed and wishing that somewhere like this would open nearer home. For Parsons Green locals, this is a real treat – a bar and dining room with wonderful cocktails, hearty British food and charming staff.
KP - June 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
I have lived next to 'The Establishment' and have eaten there regularly since they opened their doors, and in the beginning they had excellent food, great menu and a fantastic cocktails.
It seems that the credit crunch has hit them harder than anyone, they are serving terrible food, the service is poor and you get a sense that they really want you to spend the minimum time at your table so they can get a new group of people in. They must have lost their original chef, because the menu and the food they are serving is below any restaurant in this area at that price level.
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Food 1 | Service 1 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 1
Friday, October 03, 2008
We live miles away in Herts but made a special trip here to celebrate my Mum's birthday and it was well worth the journey. On a Sunday lunchtime, it was buzzing with families in the dining room, couples in the bar and well-heeled young locals tucking into huge burgers in the al fresco area. We were greeted by Sal, the lovely front of house lady, and took our seats in the dining area just off the bar.
My parents thoroughly enjoyed the roast Galloway beef, which came with enough vegetables to feed a small army and piping hot gravy. My brother's haddock (with light, crunchy beer batter) and chips was equally well received.
I was disappointed that the pea and broad bean risotto I'd been looking forward to had disappeared from the menu, but luckily it had been replaced with a more seasonal butternut squash and sage version. Deliciously creamy, topped with chunks of sweet roasted squash and pumpkin seeds - it was perfect.
I couldn't resist the sticky toffee pudding with rum butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice-cream for dessert, but I made the mistake of telling everyone how light and moist it was and ended up fending off three invading spoons!
The bill was very reasonable, considering the area and the quality of the food, and our only complaint that day was about the traffic in Chelsea on the way home. I'll certainly be back!
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-K- - View all reviews by this user
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Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Good food, wine and atmosphere spoilt by the inclusion on our bill of a bottle of Chateau Leoville Las Case 1995 at £185 instead of the Les Tourelles de Longueville at £50. The lack of an apology made us suspicious and left everyone in our party of 6 with negative feelings.
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George - View all reviews by this user
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Food 7 | Service 4 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
this restaurant is a welcome addition to the New end of the King's Road once you've crossed the Green.last night i enjoyed a fine leek and potato soup with excellent toast followed by a well judged sea bass with deliciously fruity ,mustardy lentils and wild garlic.the rhubarb crumble with lemon cream(the advertised vanilla ice cream was apparently still churning)was closer to crunchy and tantalisingly bitter sweet.the wine list has been well chosen and a degree of self control was needed although being located opposite Parsons Green tube station should encourage the more bibulous diners to leave their cars at home and indulge.decent coffee but single or double the price is the same and petits fours don't feature.
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bsc - View all reviews by this user
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Food 8 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Thursday, April 03, 2008
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