The SILVER ROOM at Hush
our review
Hush has always had a rather attractive louche vibe. Cutely tucked away in a warren of alleys it’s a house that extends into neighbouring buildings and feels like it could be turned into an old-fashioned bordello with ease. You know the sort, the kind where as the old bill come in at the front door, the half-dressed customers escape down hidden tunnels, vault over rooftops and drop from drainpipes etc. Of course, as the lawyers gather round me, I have to say it is all perfectly respectable really,
The upstairs restaurant next to the busy bar had always suffered from one drawback – the busy bar. The noise levels were so great that all hopes of a romantic date went out the window as the music got louder and you had to bellow sweet nothings at each other. It was a dark room too, with over grand French cooking which sat uneasily with the house music next door. Well it’s had a makeover; the room is now bright and airy, a curved wall and heavy curtains reduce the bar noise to a distant murmur and the menu has been simplified to be a mix of easily digestible French and Italian dishes. Staff too have become less formal, and while the patrons still dress expensively (this is Mayfair after all) they too are more unbuttoned and free. It’s a nice busy buzz.
A starter of Carpaccio di manzo was so startling in colour and design I thought I’d been handed an empty plate designed by Mondrian, In fact the gorgeous red came from the Rizla-thin raw beef slices beautifully overlapping each other and the pattern was horseradish mayonnaise which had been applied in artful dribbles. I do like it when they serve a lemon in muslin too, no pesky pips. The beef was meltingly tender but the mayonnaise I would have liked to have had a bit more fire, perhaps using wasabi? But it was still very good. Linguine with surf clams, chilli and garlic came in a dinky copper saucepan, which was then tipped onto the plate. The pasta was properly al dente, the clams juicy. Once again chef had been a little shy with the seasoning; in Italy it’s not unusual to see diners produce their own dried chillies from their pocket to crumble over their food and that’s what I would have liked to have done here. Nonetheless, a perfectly good dish.
Mains of Veal Milanese with wild rocket and tomato salad didn’t disappoint either. Let’s face it, it’s not hard to get a piece of veal escalope, bash it thin, cover it in egg and breadcrumbs and fry it. That’s why it’s so popular, and not just in Milan either. This was bashed so thin it had quadrupled in size, so that the plate almost overflowed but was free of excess oil and drenching it in lemon juice gave it a nice lift along with its topping of rocket salad. Black sea bream all’isolana was good too, Isolana is a town that has had many a risotto named after it, but here the fish had a good crispy skin and a fine flavour. Battered courgette slices and garlic beans proved more than suitable sides for both dishes.
And so to the finale and a tiramisu and a grappa from the large selection on offer. The tiramisu was a bit rich for my taste, but that’s how tiramisu is, so no complaints. The grappa was first class as were all the wines by the glass the sommelier had suggested. With its emphasis on being a place to come back to again and again, and with a posh edge to attract a classy clientele, it seems the Silver Room has got it right for repeat business. I’ll be back.
Nick Harman - April 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
Had lunch here today because downstairs was full but how glad am I. Truffled Burrata (that outrageously creamy mozzarella-style cheese) with toasted poilane bread would have been more than enough but we also sampled Chicken and Foie Gras Parfait, Tuna Nicoise and an order of Pommes Allumettes - all delicious and beautifully presented. Two glasses of Taittinger Brut Reserve made a day off swanking in Mayfair all the more pleasant.
I will be back here, and soon. It wasn't very full so I'm hoping it's doing OK. If you're reading this, go.
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Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Thursday, July 17, 2008
