Princess Victoria

The Princess Victoria is a welcome addition to the gastro pub scene in West London - joining the Anglesea Arms and The Swan - and upping the ante in terms of good dining and a thoughtful and extensive wine offering.

The eye-catching refurbishment, elegant space and professional yet relaxed staff make this make a comfortable space for a drink or a meal. You can't help but notice the attention to detail - beer tastes as it should thanks to a state of the art system. Owner and sommelier Matt Wilkin has indulged his love of wine with an extensive and well chosen wine list - there are a raft of value for money gems - and Matt is on hand to advise. With a licence to sell to the public, this must be the poshest offie in West London.

It is fair to say that the food on offer is not traditional pub fare - but it's not white tablecloth and posh silverware either. Its pleasantly settling into a space somewhere in between. Its gastropub prices (average £15 for main course) but you could argue that the elements add up to a good deal.

Its not entirely true to say that you need to eat in the dining room. You can eat at designated tables in the bar area, and there is a handy bar menu, which includes a number of starters from the dining menu. Saying that, eating in the dining room is an experience that sets the Princess V apart. The dining room is a grand space, with original plasterwork and ceiling features restored to their former glory, but the decorations have a deliberately restrained air. It's a bit too elegant to be shabby chic, but its certainly not grannies parlour.

The staff are quick and attentive, and seem to have gotten into their routines quickly, with meals appearing within a short time of ordering. The pub reports to source as much as it can locally. The menu is not long by restaurant standards, but there is plenty to choose from - two meat dishes, two fish and at least one vegetarian are standard mains.

I should declare a bit of a bias. I am a Shebu local and wanted Princess V to succeed. I visited on day one when work was still being finished but the beer was flowing. I sat through its first Sunday sitting, when a problem with an exhaust fan in the kitchen meant they couldn't offer their planned menu - but the promise offered even then tempted me back. I have become a regular and continue to be impressed by the food.

The steak and triple-cooked chips is the signature dish, and the shoulder of lamb is tender, sweet and tempting. The fish dishes are also worth a second look. A recent outing of sea bass, creamy polenta, pancetta and celeriac really hit the spot, as did the sea trout, peas, mash and smoked bacon. Relatively simple dishes, well cooked, bursting with flavour.

If there is one grumble, its that I am not the only person who thinks its great. Its worth booking for dinner if you don't want to be disappointed...
Comment on this reader review

Jane Robinson
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Beautiful presentation of fresh ingredients, absolutely delicious. Reinvention of rhubarb. Warm welcome in interesting surroundings.
Comment on this reader review

Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Sunday, July 13, 2008

What a wonderful transformation...there is nothing else like it in the area.

The food is great, and the wine list is something else! It may not be your average gastropub (see comment below) but that has to be a bonus. This is way, way above the average gastropub. ..Why not have a pub that has an elegant dining room and a bit of glamour in W12..?!

A very welcome addition to the bush.

If you havn't been yet, you're in for a treat
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Alicia
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Wednesday, July 09, 2008

it is a beautiful pub and there's no faulting the wine list. The food was great too, steak with triple cooked chips was a winner and the potted crab was delicate and fresh. Now, here's the but, but, I can't help finding yet again that the term gastropub has yet again been used to describe what is a pub with a restaurant attached! You can't eat in the pub, you must move to the dining room. The dishes are straight out of a restaurant, not the gutsy, simple fare one should expect from the true gastropubs such as the Anchor, the Eagle and the Fox.

Don't get me wrong, the proprietors were lovely and the food was good but c'mon, a gastropub it's not.

NB. It would have been a nice touch for a former gin palace to stock more than 2 gins ;-)
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justin
Overall rating
Food 6 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 4
Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Beautifully restored Victoriana, a laid back atmosphere, an extensive wine list and great food - this is everything you could want from a 'gastro pub'. The steaks and triple cooked chips are a particular favourite of mine. It’s worth noting that this place is proving popular so booking ahead for the dining room is becoming increasingly necessary.
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David H
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Monday, July 07, 2008