Viva Verdi
our review
Ah, September. We're still waiting for summer but suddenly here comes Autumn and with it, a swarm of new restaurants all desperate to create a buzz among London's dining elite. There's Inamo in Soho; Min Jiang in Kensington; St Pancras Grand above the Eurostar terminal; and many more in between - but few are setting up home south of the river.
Viva Verdi is one of those few, with its location on Southwark's Canvey Street - home to other smart eateries like Tsuru, Leon and Del Aziz. From outside, it looks like any other slick city café but inside, the menu and the knowledgeable staff betray a passion for food that sets it apart from its nearby competitors. The focus is on the produce of Parma and its surrounding areas, so the menu consists mainly of cured meats and red wine - a match made in gourmet heaven.
We visited on a Friday lunchtime, looking for something light and tasty to stop us over-spending at nearby Borough Market. (Only fools and the filthy rich shop there on an empty stomach). We headed inside and settled into comfortable red leather chairs, which add welcome splashes of colour to the monochrome interior. Everything here is slick and polished, with baroque-print high stools at the window tables and an arty rose-shaped light fitting adding a touch of drama.
But, as my ravenous companion noted, 'you can't eat the décor, so roll out the ham'. And they did. We dismissed salami, mortadella and pancetta in favour of finely sliced parma ham - so tender and translucent we almost wept with joy. It arrives on traditional wooden boards with slices of ciabatta and chunks of aged Parmigiano Reggiano, which has an intense but not overwhelming flavour you just don't find in standard supermarket offerings.
We also shared a generous portion of the tortellini al prosciutto - top quality pasta filled with ham and topped with a light tomato and basil sauce and plenty of grated Parmigiano. There are paninis and piadinas on the menu as well and the man in charge of the antique Berkel slicer will happily carve up your favourite hams for you to take home.
The wine list is concise in the extreme, with just six carefully selected reds and three whites on offer. The rich Mirabile Nero d'Avola is a bargain at £4.95 a glass but if you're looking for something lighter then the list's only rosé - a light and fruity Sicilian - is a good choice.
While Viva Verdi delivers on the promised 'symphony of flavours', but the service hit a bum note. We waited an age to place our order and struggled to catch the attention of the waitresses, despite being one of about five tables occupied. It's still early days though, so they have time to up their game
Pop in for lunch if you're in the area, or sit outside in the cubist al fresco area – after-work aperitivo in hand - and enjoy Verdi's operas playing in the background. Granted, it's not the Amalfi coast but it’s as close as you’re going to get in London.
KP - September 2008
what the critics say
Tom Lamont
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