The Oak Room
our review
What is it with Marlowe? So many good restaurants and more coming all the time. The Oak Room is the fine dining restaurant in Danesfield House, a massive country mansion with magnificent views out on the Thames and the Chilterns. Apparently it was once a family house but it must have been one hell of a family as it’s the size of Hampton Court, only prettier.
Adam Simmonds is at the controls here and has been since 2007 when he took over from Aiden Byrne, now at the Dorchester Grill. Adam’s CV is impressive and his food even more so. We pushed the boat on the tasting menu and were glad we did. Often tasting menus have me requiring the services of two waiters to help me out the door while I softly groan ‘never again’, but here portion and pace were as perfectly judged as the dishes themselves. Seven courses, plus lots of little inbetweenies, adds up to a lot in theory but in practice made us feel happily replete. I have to admit we did take a fag break just before the final dessert, just so we could lean on the balustrade and gaze at the glorious view safe in the knowledge our table was waiting to welcome us back, but it wasn’t obligatory.
A punchy teacup of pea and parmesan soup got us ready for a beautiful scallop with tomato fondue and fennel ice cream. The latter’s aniseed note worked well with the scallop and the textural and temperature contrasts were innovative and amusing. Confit foie gras, cooked sous vide, had a golden peach slice lurking beneath to cut the fat and a ‘waffer thin’ slice of truffle to scent the palate. The suggested glass of Gruner Veltliner was peppery and a match for the foie gras. Next was lobster, which I can take or leave as I rather prefer the King Crab these days, but this Scottish crustacean was delicately roasted and the tiny Feves and Girolles mushrooms with their delicate flavour and gentle firmness drew out extra flavour from the lobster itself and the apple puree dobbed onto the plate next to it gave a citrussy sharpness that balanced the sweet flesh. The Oxiles flower was photogenic but that’s all I can say about it. I even googled it to find out more and the only mention I found was on the Oak Room’s own website so I am none the wiser.
Lamb on a tasting menu can often be the straw that breaks the diner’s back – rich, heavy and just too much. Adam’s lamb broke the mould instead by being slow-cooked and sliced with a razor to lie in delicate slivers on a tiny bed of spiced cous cous. Alongside came a tube of red pepper with a filling of goat’s cheese whose firm flavour complimented the lamb perfectly. There was braised tongue and some aubergine caviar in the mix too, but for me the lamb, the cous cous and the goat’s cheese were all I needed. A real cracker of a dish that hit a peak for the savoury courses and which was beautifully accompanied by the excellent Faro red from Sicily.
Cheeses with the same wine were a small selection compared to some places but small is beautiful and here were prime examples from France of course, but also Wales and England too, and served with a celery sorbet an innovation unique I think to the Oak Room and a very good idea.
Consommé of strawberries with a parmesan ice cream was a remarkable taste experience and the following dish of Chocolate and fig millefeuille with fig ice cream and cocoa jelly satisfied the hankering we all have for chocolate with class and style. The 2005 Maury dessert wine was another good choice from the friendly and informative sommelier who led a charmingly effective and efficient team from the start.
With it’s terrace, location, rooms to recover in and superb cooking from a young chef already a star and with a great future surely assured, the Oak Room is well worth the short ride from London to get there. Treat yourselves.
N.H - August 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
No readers reviews yet.
Why not be the first and enter our competition to win a bottle of champagne.
Click here to write your review.
