Testi

The amusingly-named Testi (with lamb testicles a speciality, but don't let that put you off - check them out in the chiller cabinet next to the liver!) serves up the best Turkish food I've had in London. I used to live on Green Lanes so thought I'd pretty much tasted the best I was going to get (at Antepliler), but a visit to Stoke Newington High Street last night proved me very wrong.

Unlike a lot of the north London Turkish establishments, Testi is cosy and restauranty, with the enormous barbecue at the front of the restaurant giving off a lovely warmth on a freezing February night. For a Tuesday it was pretty much full and the atmosphere (and amazing aromas) promised a good night.

To start my friend ordered a very generously-sized cold platter of various dips to share (cacik, houmous, aubergine, tarama) plus some lovely grilled spicy Turkish sausage and bread. The dips weren't anything special, my advice would be to avoid these and try some of the other more interesting warm starters - I'd heard good things about the liver so was regretting not being more adventurous.

Mains were where Testi really shone - we had a lamb beyti and a chicken beyti (minced meat with loads of garlic, herbs and chilli, though not as finely minced and smooth as kofte). These were barbecued on the grill and were spectacular - succulent inside and charred, smoky and a little crunchy outside, totally packed with flavour. These both came with warm Turkish bread, buttery rice, divine roasted onion tossed with pomegranate molasses and sumac and a huge tomato & herb salad.

Enormous portions meant I filled a takeaway box with chicken and salad for lunch today, which is sitting in front of me now absolutely stinking out the office (in a good way). Counting the days already until I can go back - next time I'm going for the liver and quail. Or if I'm feeling brave, a testicle kebab. If anywhere can make balls taste good, Testi can.
Comment on this reader review

BrightonSuz
10 Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 10
Wednesday, February 10, 2010