Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room

Ramsay protege Angela Hartnett has thrown her hat into the ring with this newly renovated matchbox sized dining room at hip East End Whitechapel Gallery. It's under her 'consultation' along with a company called Smart Hospitality. It smacks slightly of a branding exercise, but the promise of Hartnett's gutsy, honest and simple Italian cooking (along with a fascinating exhibition by collage maker John Stezaker) made us take the trek out east on a frosty February night.

The menu is short, seasonal and flies all over the place. It's more Italian than anything, but only just... Nibbles include a gorgeously grassy olive oil, emerald green and good enough to drink straight - served with slices of sourdough. The list then divides into small and large plates, interchangeable easily, but starter and main for most people's needs. We go for a full-flavoured and rich cauliflower soup, essentially hot cauliflower flavoured cream, tasty but slightly too rich for me. Served with blue cheese beignets, these seem like a step too far. I have Cornish mackerel served with pickled fennel and harissa. It was as nice a piece of the fish as I've ever had, sweet and perfectly cooked. The fennel was a subtle side, heated slightly by the harissa, cutting through the oiliness of the fish without overpowering it. Other options included a healthy sized portion of deep fried squid and a plate of cured salmon served with a sweet mustard potato salad that my guest combined with a beetroot, goats cheese and sweet potato dish for her main options, preferring these to the larger plate options on offer.

My rabbit hot pot was exceptional. Strong flavours combining well to deliver a dish the equal of anything I've eaten at York & Albany. Tiny carrot cubes gave a sweet hit to the small oven pot packed with gamey rabbit. As a side, I went for a portion of truffle chips, the only off note of the meal for me, they arrived slightly limp and over-salted.

The dessert list is similarly bijou, but of enormous interest. A prune and almond tart was rich, moist and (from the tiny amount I was allowed to sample) perfectly balanced. My bitter chocolate pot came in the cliched kilner jar and was as nice a pot as I've had (if not necessarily bitter) set off with a lovely homemade honeycomb.

The buzz and chatter in and about the tiny dining room appears deserved, and I hope that they're able to sustain this level of quality in the months and years to come. If you find yourself in the area, and aren't on a pilgrimage to Tayyabs, then I'd certainly suggest stopping by.
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www.grumblinggourmet.com - View all reviews by this user
8 Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 9
Saturday, February 19, 2011

Having seen the recent publicity for the Whitechapel Gallery Restaurant I tried it for lunch with a couple of business colleagues.

It was smaller and less arty than I expected [since it is attached to the Gallery] but the ambiance is good and the food was excellent.

The main dining room holds about 80 with two waiters and a manager on duty. this ensured attentive service.

All the food was well presented and more than fulfilled the promised descriptions - though on occasions they were less than manly portions.

Wine prices offered good value for money [ the most expensive on the menu was £32] and unlimited bottled water at £1 was an exceptional offer.

This is a great place for entertaining whether for business or pleasure; no chance to gt stitched up with an overexpensive bill but quality all the way.

I sugggest however it has an identity crisis. All the press coverage was about Angela Hartnett's involvement but she isn't mentioned on the menu ; menus are used as placemats; and cutlery is set out on folded paper napkins like a pub service standard. The food and venue deserve better.
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David Hackett
9 Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 9
Friday, February 11, 2011

We went last night, and had an excellent time. The food was, for the most part, fantastic - my only complaint is that my fish main course was a bit overcooked. The best part of the evening was the service - all three of the waiters/waitresses that served us were some of the best that we have ever had in London, and made for an excellent evening. The wine list was great too Highly reccommended.
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CS
9 Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Friday, September 10, 2010

I agree with Mark K. The food at Whitechapel is a mix of too bland and too bold (unsubtle) flavours -- but I'd add a third category: outre for the sake of it. Does the flavour of vanilla actually enhance or even go with fish?

The menu is of the kind that seeks to provide maximum information on ingredients but actually leaves out such key details (in the above instance, yes, I did knowingly order fish with a chestnut cream sauce -- already possibly dubious -- but the vanilla in the cream sauce went unmentioned.

There was a similar wong note in my co-luncher's meal which invoked tradition (brisket, barley) but then, it seemed that the wine marinade of the brisket had been added to the barley. Again: is wine and barley a good mix?
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miranda escobedo - View all reviews by this user
5 Overall rating
Food 5 | Service 5 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 5
Saturday, December 12, 2009

A great concept, good service but the food was just not up to standard. For Friday lunchtime I had the beetroot salad starter, followed by pan fried sea bream. Flavours were not subtle. The beetroot starter was nicely presented but overpowered with vinegar. The Sea Bass was very bland and over cooked, clearly pan fried in plain olive oil not infused with anything with very little flavour. The Sea Bass sat on a bland home made pasta of sorts in a creamy sauce which lacked something. The 'selection of vegetables were cooked perfectly but doused in too much butter and salt. It is a shame. I will not be returning as there are many far better restaurants at the price. The lunch came to £91 for three of us, drinking only water and had no desert.
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Mark K - View all reviews by this user
6 Overall rating
Food 4 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 4
Saturday, November 21, 2009