Eastside Inn

38-42 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AY - View on a map
Telephone: Bistro: 020 7490 9240; Restaurant: 020 7490 9230

Eastside Inn Restaurant In London

what the critics say

Guardian

Jay Rayner

Sunday, October 25, 2009 - On a weekday night all the tables around us in the bistro were filled with people happily eating off each other's plates. The menu is admirably small but the flavours are enormous...Baby squid in the Basque style brings an earthenware pot with sweet curls of seafood, perked up with smoked paprika on a bubbling olive oil stew of peppers, onions and garlic. You clean out the bowl with your fork, then with your bread, and finally with your finger. Likewise a Catalan-inspired dish of prawns roasted with huge amounts of chilli and garlic in a tagine-style pot had us chasing the sauce around the edges...


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Had dinner in the bistro side here last Monday night.

First impression the place looks nice and inviting and the open central kitchen looks stunning. The menu reads well but is very short for the size of the place with about 8 starters and 6 mains to choose from. Service was good with our waiter knowing the menu well and he was able to answer our questions easily.

Breads were warm and tasty and the starters of duck rillette and onion soup were both good but not outstanding. Mains were better with my prawns in a garlic sauce served with a green salad being very good but not cheap at nearly £18 for 5 fair sized prawns. We then got a pre dessert of some sort of rosemary ice cream (I dont think you normally get this in the bistro, I guess the chefs were bored as the place was very quiet). We finished of with a shared chocolate dessert that looked and tasted very good.

The wine list was very short less than 12 wines in total, but the main restaurant list is available if needed. We had a pichet of white at £19.

Overall a nice addition to the Smithfield area and I would try it again on a busier night. It would be nice to see the chefs in action, as I think this would give the whole place a real buzz.
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Chris - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 7 stars
Food 8 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 7
Saturday, January 16, 2010

With all the great reviews I have heard or Bjorn in the past I'd thought I give his bew restaurant a try. It was a very decent sized restaurant, it has one open kitchen which serves the fine dining part and also the bistro. I chose to eat at the formal part of the restaurant. Went and had the business lunch for 35 pounds. With the food, very disappointing, nothing exciting, bland, nothing formal. Was just average food on nice plateware. would not go back.
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Overall rating 3 stars
Food 2 | Service 4 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 1
Friday, August 21, 2009

Asked as we were leaving the restaurant whether we had enjoyed our meal, we could only say that it was "ok". We had opted for the "business express lunch", and while the technical proficiency of the chef was in no doubt, and the presentation precise and elegant, there was nothing to inspire, nothing to capture the imagination. There was simply something missing from the food, no sign of any "spark".

While a set menu will inevitably be limited in scope, one might reasonably hope for it to deliver a representative taste of a restaurant, to encourage further exploration on a subsequent visit. In this case, it seemed to be running on a parallel track - as if all the fun had been removed for the "business express lunch", to the extent that one is almost forced to wonder whether someone is having a laugh at the "business express" crowd, and the very concept of dining within an hour (which we didn't manage).

Portions were small, flavours were decidedly safe and unexceptional, and the atmosphere - admittedly mid-August - was flat. None of us left satisfied, and there was nothing in the £50/head (inc wine) experience to encourage a return visit to explore the (unpriced) a la carte version.
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Overall rating 4 stars
Food 5 | Service 5 | Atmosphere 3 | Value for money 2
Thursday, August 20, 2009

Three colleagues and I tried the Eastside Inn today – Bjorn van den Horst’s new restaurant in Smithfield. I wasn’t a fan of La Noisette so, hedging our bets, we went for the ‘Business Express Lunch’: £35 for 3 courses, plus £10 for two glasses of wine.

The menu was limited, as one might expect, but the starter options were rather uninspiring: smoked chicken season salad or chilled pea soup. We all opted for the pea soup. Well executed but, well, not very exciting. The splash of rather good olive oil on the plate and some decent ham added to what was otherwise a rather monotonous plate of pea cream.

Main course choices were pan fried fillet of plaice with fondant potato and mussels with a bouillabaisse style sauce, or duck breast with spiced root veg and baby pak choi. These certainly read better on the menu but, again, failed to impress. It was just very safe cooking. The duck portion was small – probably half a breast (?) – and a few pieces of veg. The sauce was little more than soy, honey and some stock. Some potatoes wouldn’t have improved the mediocrity of the dish, but would have bulked it out to a reasonable lunch.

Pudding was a choice between cheese and a chocolate, praline and tonka bean concoction. Visually, this was much more what I was expecting from van der Horst - a large hollow ball of dark chocolate with miscellaneous fillings. With warm chocolate sauce added at the table, it broke its banks and a tonka bean and praline ooze gushed onto the plate. Popping candy in the base was a surprise element. So far so good, but the eating failed to meet expectations. A colleague remarked it tasted like a Toblerone the other like a Magnum, and they were not far off. In the end, the taste didn’t live up to the vision.

And that was it. No bread, no canapés, no extras, except for some average olives while we looked over the menu. So, nearing the price of Le Gavroche’s deal, this failed to offer equivalent quality or value for money. While Le Gavroche’s menu works, in that it compels you to return and dine a la carte, you leave the Eastside Inn wondering, “is that all they are capable of?”. 5/10
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MJN
Overall rating 5 stars
Food 5 | Service 4 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 4
Thursday, August 20, 2009

Delighted to see that Bjorn van der Horst has returned to the London scene. I had the pleasure of dining at his new Eastside Inn and it was excellent.

In the bistro I enjoyed a rich onion soup, a mouth watering short rib of beef and finished wih one of my old time favourites, rice pudding. All excellent.

The bistro is bright and inviting. Set up in a true French fashion with a long banquette and mirrors. Service was most attentive. Bjorn's lovely wife Justine added sparkle and friendliness to this great new restaurant.
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Megan Wells
Overall rating 9 stars
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Friday, May 29, 2009

what the bloggers say

London Eater

London Eater

Monday, December 07, 2009 - The cooking was spellbinding, and it imbued the spirit and wonder of gastronomy, and also why one is willing to pay good money for a dazzling meal. This were some of the best dishes I've had in London in 2009 and there is strong evidence that Bjorn is probably due a Michelin star (or two) when the Red Guide gets its revision in January...No stars, overpriced and an ugly dining room. If you are willing to overlook this, then the Eastside Inn could be an enthralling experience for that very special meal.

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@AndyLynes - Have used ours twice and found it much the same as tomato puree. Perhaps we've missed a trick?

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