More

Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - More feels like a proper discovery. This converted greasy spoon on an unremarkable stretch of Tooley Street is currently serving some of the most exciting grub to be had in the city. There's an effortlessly creative feel to the pan-European food that harks back to the eclecticism of modern British cooking at its height in the mid-1990s...The concise, daily-printed menu reads like it's been written by a real pro too, with delicious sounding combinations such as sauteed chicken livers with broad beans, pancetta, baby onions, sage masala and rocket just begging to be ordered.

Friday, July 10, 2009 - More's a little place, quite loud with shouty City types, and also sweltering on the warm evening we visited...The open kitchen was a flurry of activity led by head chef Beatrice Ferrante. Sitting at the bar is a great spectator activity, especially with such visually arresting dishes. One starter resembled a variation on bouillabaisse, a seafood stock with wine strongly flavoured with saffron that contained baby squid, shards of fennel and cut leeks...With jolly staff and a feelgood buzz, we wanted more of More.

Thursday, June 04, 2009 - More is open for long hours, from breakfast until late at night. They say they are happy for people to come simply for a drink — and they also offer a takeaway service… When we ordered seared salmon with cauliflower caponata (£13.20), we were told it would be only lightly cooked inside, as though some people might find that problematic. As it happened, it turned up pretty thoroughly done. A good portion, the fish came posed upright on the plate, on top of a punchy caponata, featuring those giant caper berries it’s hard to imagine anybody ever choosing to serve themselves at home.