Manson

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what the critics say

Metro

Andy Lynes - 2/5

Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - A nicely presented rump of Elwy Valley lamb is so severely undercooked that any collie dog worth its salt could have herded it back into the kitchen. An accompanying potato rosti would also have benefited from more time in the pan. A veal chop has been nicely grilled but is presented artlessly on top of some sprouting broccoli and comes with a pat of anchovy butter that tasted far more of butter than anchovy...A delicious bottle of Pouilly Fuisse from a concise, fairly priced and interesting selection raises our spirits but we struggled to find anything else about the experience that would draw us back.

The Independent

John Walsh - 10/15

Saturday, April 10, 2010 - It's a warm and welcoming interior, as embracing as a favourite pub. There's nothing pubby about the food, though. Presiding over the kitchen is young Gemma Tuley, who trained as a chef under Gordon Ramsay at Claridges Hotel and in Paris...A main course of stone bass was a triumph, the fish so toastily charred, fresh and delicious, the polenta so unexpectedly creamy, the beetroot and salady leaves so full of aromas of spring. My braised pork belly was a revelation...It was a wonderful lunch. For all its naive rustic charm, the Manson has a star of real urban sophistication in its midst.

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what the bloggers say

Cheese and Biscuits

Cheese and Biscuits - 6/10

Friday, January 13, 2012 - It wasn't that the food at Manson was bad, exactly - most of it was fine, some of it was good, and it did all look the part - but it was occasionally quite...odd. Take my starter of turbot with pigs trotter sauce; the sauce very well executed in that classically-trained way, being perfectly reduced and rich in flavour and colour, it just didn't sit very well with the fish - it felt like a sauce meant for a bloody hunk of rare venison or aged beef steak. And the fish itself was the strangest texture, not dry exactly but dense and congealed - fresh fish should break into moist flakes, but this split apart like meat jelly and I really missed a nice crispy skin. Caraway-cured sea trout though, paired with lightly pickled vegetables, was a more successful experiment and the pretty coils of Romanesco broccoli made for a very attractive plate of food.

Dos Hermanos

Dos Hermanos

Saturday, March 27, 2010 - Two small Scallops were decently cooked but sans roe and came on top of a Crab Gratin. The latter tasted fine but needed a pepping up to make it more interesting - a little chili might have helped here. The gratin was in a scallop shell which sat inside yet another shell. It was ambitiously priced at twelve quid and took about a minute to eat...Good-tasting Denhay Ham came with a pile of nicely made Celeriac remoulade with Pommery mustard but the potato croquette added nothing. Veal Chop was ok meat, cooked competently with a pat of anchovy butter on top which resolutely refused to melt.

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