our review
Restaurant group Peyton and Byrne have launched a new restaurant and bar at the Royal Academy of Arts. Restaurateur Oliver Peyton has worked closely with head chef Andrea Zuccolo to design a menu that makes full use of prime British ingredients. As well as starters, mains and desserts, a selection of small plates and terrines are available, offering diners the flexibility to enjoy a full two or three course meal, order tapas-style or drop in for a quick bite. Over 20 wines are available by the glass, and afternoon tea is also served.
A bar made from handmade brick and lava stone from Mount Etna occupies the full length of one wall and also serves as a counter at which guests can have a quick lunch, tea or a glass of wine.
January 2011
what the critics say
Jay Rayner
John Walsh - 10/15
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
I wanted the food here to be amazing, because the room is absolutely drop dead gorgeous, the waiting staff are wonderful and so very eager to make the place work, and because I imagined myself returning with people I want to impress and share food in lovely surroundings with.
Alas...it is not to be. The food was sadly below par. And I am really sad about that.
The place opened only a few days ago, and was reasonably empty on a saturday night - fine...it's new. This meant, however, that the kitchen could have devoted more time and effort to our food.
I had gambas (prawns) and milk mayonnaise to start with. The prawns were fat and juicy but quite tasteless - not at all sweet, or seafoody. The mayonniase was served straight out of the fridge so the cold temperature meant I could not distinguish the taste from the texture, which was unfortunate because the texture of this mayonnaise is like Hellmanns.
The main course was confit of cod with red cabbage dumplings. The cod was unobjectionable, but did not have any of that richer, melty quality you expect of a confit. It may as well have been poached. The cabbage dumplings were an insult. Two slices of deep fried pastry with a quarter teaspoon of cabbage sandwiched between them. All I could taste was deep-fried pastry.
I kept going with the courses...I kept hoping! I had crumble. The topping was completely soggy and the rhubarb had not been sweetened enough, so there was tartness but no comfort.
It was not cheap, but the sadness was not the price - it was the disparity between such a beautiful place and the disappointing food. The wine was great. Reasonably priced too.
I feel sorry for the staff. I think they knew...one apologised for 'everything', despite the fact we were too polite to complain.
If anyone from the restaurant reads this, please take heed, and do something whilst you're still new. It would be nice to see you succeed.
Comment on this reader review
Overall rating 
Food 3 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 3
Sunday, January 30, 2011
@foodepedia Pretty bright and sticky over here but not as wet as we thought. Enjoy the heatwave!
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