Rosemary Lane

Rosemary Lane is an under-rated gem of a restaurant. Once found, you will be torn between recommending it to passing strangers, and keeping it as a secret, with the hope that it is does not become spoiled like so many a west-end eaterie.

I have eaten at Rosemary Lane five times in twelve months, and every time have been impressed with the use of seasonal ingredients put together with great attention to detail. The food is exceptional - truly innovative. I have had particular luck with fish based starters such as lobster roullade, scallops, and herb encrusted tuna. And with hearty mains, particularly duck and venison. But to be honest, I have never seen a bad dish come out of the kitchen - consistency that makes you confident in taking friends there for a return visit.

The wine list is excellent, particularly in the Californian section. The cheapest bottle is priced at £12, and the most expensive at less than £100.

If Rosemary Lane were in W1 - it would be packed every night. Thankfully (or unfortunately) it isnt - but if you live on the east side of town (or don't mind walking for ten minutes from the tube) - you would be crazy to go anywhere else.

If you are sick of soulless Conran efforts (Pont de la Tour and Coq D'Argent being prime examples) a visit to Rosemary Lane might restore your hope in what city dining can offer.
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Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 10
Sunday, January 15, 2006