Wapping Food at The Wapping Project

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what the critics say


Marina O'Loughlin

Friday, September 28, 2012 - Every dish we try is as exhilarating as the setting. Young uses n'duja to add musky heat to plump palourde clams with octopus; and sumac to deliver a hit of refreshing sourness to a slab of cod, its Basque-style pil-pil sauce daringly slicked with dill oil...Wapping Food is never going to be everyone's cup of matcha: too cerebral and uncompromising. Even the wine list refuses to countenance anything that doesn't come from Australia, but it's rammed with well-priced dazzlers, so who's complaining?

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