The Devonshire Arms

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what the critics say


Zoe Williams - 3/5

Sunday, November 27, 2011 - I made J have the oxtail and rib cottage pie, because it's not often you find an oxtail in a pie, let alone a rib (such a pest to have to prise the bone out); he didn't regret it, or at least he didn't admit to regretting it. It was extremely rich; they're both so close to the bone, these cuts, they ascend to heights of meatiness that a mere steak could only dream of...We had some honey-roast quince on the side; it was unusual and savoury, with a grainy texture (I would normally mean that as an insult, but here it was lovely).

City AM

City AM

Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - The Devonshire, which re-opened a couple of weeks ago, is now a stripped back place with bare floors, bare tables and khaki-green wooden wall panels. The menu is well-considered, with nothing too complicated but little that's run-of-the-mill - as it should be. I nipped along this weekend, and had unctuous, herby duck rillettes that spread beautifully on toast, and some nicely-cooked scallops that didn't really go with a rather tart piccalilli...Things are still getting in order at the Devonshire, and there's plenty on the menu to suggest a keen culinary mind at work here. Good ale selection too.

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