The Angel & Crown

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what the critics say


Jay Rayner

Sunday, June 03, 2012 - A venison pie was all right, and I liked the way the crust was supported by a sawn-off length of bone. The cooking of lamb rump was adequate, though the lovely Jersey Royals were beyond crushed. A chocolate parfait and a cream-bulked banoffee pie were so uniform as to make me wonder whether they had been bought in. (I was assured not.)...Right now the Angel & Crown is one of the better choices on St Martin's Lane. But that really is damning it with faint praise.

This Is London

This Is London - 2/5

Thursday, February 16, 2012 - First impressions were good. The layout recalls the French House, only with more space. Downstairs it's all dark walls and taxidermy, speciality beers and post-ironic bar snacks: roast bone marrow, pickled eggs. It's cosy, and will be cosier still once the spanking newness has been scuffed off...But, oh dear, this place has none of St John's subtlety or inventiveness. The duck livers in my starter were soft and sanguinary but served on a wodge of sappingly bland white toast. Mackerel pate tasted supermarket-y. A decent slice of black pudding came with an egg that had been coddled solid, and imperceptible tarragon. A terribly oversalted pig's head terrine was a foretaste of what was to come.

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