Yaneff at DSTRKT

Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - We tried a foie gras lollipop and found it delicious and surprising: creamy liver coated in sour cherry and pop rocks that fizz when you put it in your mouth. Grilled broccolini with burrata was also suprisingly good: the cheese melty and creamy like in Italy. Most delicious of all was the truffle gnocchi with cheddar, chives and nutmeg that came steaming in a jar. It packed a high-density hit of creamy carbohydrate. Divine...There is lots to try here and lots to enjoy - all you have to do is forget that behind a flap is a nightclub where the worst reality TV stars, footballers and their hangers-ons go to sink Grey Goose and Cristal.

Sunday, May 27, 2012 - Scallops with a smooth pea puree are expertly seasoned and cooked and come, praise be, with their coral intact. Big prawns are beautifully grilled and seasoned with a charred spring-onion oil and offer lots of head-suckage opportunities. There is a Kilner jar of hot smoked caramelised and crunchy cauliflower florets which gives a puff of smoke as you lift the lid. It's completely compelling. Two grilled lamb chops with a smoked aubergine puree were both of terrific quality and as well executed as you could hope to find. Most impressive of all is a dark and chewy risotto negro, filled with more big prawns, baby squid and cockles, which is the sort of dish I might just tolerate the tooth-grinding stupidities of the place for.