Blue Elephant

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Marina O'Loughlin

Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - Laab ped - finely chopped duck salad - delivers a massive thwack of flavour from quantities of lime juice, Thai basil, nippy little pink shallots and threads of kaffir lime leaves. They've correctly included ground, toasted rice and snake beans - this is rare, even in good Thai restaurants - but I wish they'd either roasted off the clods of flabby duck fat or omitted it altogether. There's a thick, oily Penang curry ('red' spices, peanuts and loads of coconut cream). 'Drunken sizzling beef' shows no evidence of either booze or sizzle and the meat is greyish and sinewy. With a royal ransom's-worth of interior design, it seems reductive to skimp on ingredients. Maybe they figure we'll be too dazzled by the surroundings to notice.

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