Feargus O'Sullivan reviews

Thursday, November 27, 2008 - The place is a real looker, its handsome, spacious Victorian dining room updated but not ruined by huge lamps that look like the tassels on a burlesque dancer. Coming in off loud, scuzzy Liverpool Street, there’s a palpable sense of relief at finding somewhere so calm and airy. But it’s the food that’s the main draw. The well-sourced Anglo-French menu boasts intricate dishes that somehow never feel fussy.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - Flash comes from the team behind Bethnal Green’s Bistrotheque, who also opened London’s first pop-up restaurant, The Reindeer, two¬ Christmases ago. But Flash is a whole lot slicker, and arguably less buzzy…more sedate, and doesn’t have such a strong sense of cultural crossover. Diners are a more West London-ish crowd and few seemed interested in looking around the galleries, which were all but empty. Flash still charms, but I missed a little of the rawness that gave its guerrilla forerunner its spark. That said, Flash is a damn fine place to eat.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - Finding a proper, non-chain restaurant in the now-soulless Spitalfields Market is also a great relief. Since this once-handsome Victorian building was gutted and ­replaced by a hideously bland plate-glass mini-mall, most of the restaurants look like they’ve escaped from an airport concourse, so Le ­Bouchon’s relative individuality is most welcome.

Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - The Swiss may be great with clocks, chocolate and money, but they can’t bloody spell. At least, that’s my conclusion after visiting the first London branch of the Swiss vegetarian restaurant chain Tibits – surely they meant to call it “Titbits”, or did they just think that sounded rude?

Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - Just the one thought on walking into the new St Pancras Grand: “Wow.” With its vaulted gold ¬ceilings and ye olde globe lamps, this handsome new restaurant upstairs at St Pancras station looks like a fancy Victorian brothel. A brothel with a view, mind: peeping out ¬towards St Pancras’s stunning roof, it’s got one of London’s most swoon-worthy locations.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - Calling Tendido Cuatro to make my booking, I was haughtily informed we were allowed the table for a measly, churlish, rubbish 90 minutes. Naturally, I wasn’t best pleased, having made a personal pledge to avoid both Yauatcha and Hakkasan in the past for similar­ treatment (pay attention, Alan Yau). But, for the good of journalism, I behaved myself, arrived bang on time, ordered and ate briskly.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - Battersea’s Northcote Road is such a honey pot for local diners that if you set up a bijou bistro dishing up deep-fried cardboard there’d probably still be queues around the block. Given the strip’s popularity, it’s hardly surprising that new gastropub The Bolingbroke seems already to be a hit in its opening week.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008 - Ever wondered what it would be like to eat dinner inside a life-sized video game? OK, I'm guessing not, but if the idea has piqued your interest anyway, you might like to get down to new Soho opening Inamo.

Thursday, July 24, 2008 - Is it ok to be average sometimes? Speaking as someone of average height, build and, frankly, looks, I'd like to think it is. So I'm reluctant to be too grudging about Devonshire Terrace, a welcoming new restaurant near Liverpool Street that just happens to be a little, well, ordinary.