Katy Guest reviews
Geales (Chelsea) - 7/10
Sunday, November 07, 2010 - The rich, tomatoey fish soup is fantastic, not too fishy, and huge. There's not enough cheese in the cute little Gruyere/croutons/rouille combo that accompanies it, but when is there ever enough cheese?...And the fish and chips? Perfectly crisp; perfectly fluffy. I can't fault it (damn it). The tartare sauce is bland, there's no vinegar with anything and I have to ask (how gauche!) for ketchup, but I must admit that this is a dish to rival east Yorkshire's finest. It is also tiny, of course: The Magpie in Whitby this ain't. It's good, though. Very good. For Chelsea.
The Red Fort - 6/10
Sunday, September 26, 2010 - Our mains, in their cute little clay pots, are exceptional. The Hyderabadi bhuna gosht (Herdwick lamb with ginger, garlic, black pepper and coriander) is dark and complexly tasty. The nalli rogan josh (lamb shank with nutmeg, cinnamon and bay leaves) apparently 'falls off the bone' and tastes pleasingly of lamb, complemented by spices. But a fiver for plain, boiled rice? Surely people only eat rice because they are too poor to afford real food? We're lucky: a larger group nearby is told that nobody may individually order rice or bread, but that the waiter will bring a selection 'for the table'.