Matthew Fort reviews

Saturday, May 18, 2002 - Each dish was, in effect, a sophisticated dialogue between food and consumer, eliciting intelligent pleasure from tongue, tastebuds, and olfactory bulb. The pyrotechnics of plate arrangement had given way to unostentatious virtuosity, sublimating visual éclat to flavour and texture.

Saturday, May 18, 2002 - Titfer remarked that he couldn't quite see the point of cutting up sweetbreads into squares before caramelising them, even if you were going to serve them with wilted rocket and Jerusalem artichokes, as you lost one of the points of sweetbreads, which is their taut softness. And he felt that sweetness in the Claridge's version of the poached-grilled pigeon was generally overplayed, although the pigeon breasts themselves had him rhapsodising at length.