William Skidelsky reviews

Sunday, September 21, 2008 - It is indeed extraordinarily good. The crust has a distinctly sour taste, but this isn't overwhelming. The mozzarella, which is made specially for Franco Manca at an organic farm in Somerset, is wonderfully buttery, its richness the perfect foil for the mushrooms. This particular pizza doesn't have tomato - Mascoli points out that it would overwhelm the flavour of the girolles. Within minutes our plate is empty. Mascoli summons the waitress and places a new order - this time for a chorizo and mozzarella pizza (the most expensive, at £5.60). I find it oddly comforting that it will take only 40 seconds to cook.