London-eaten. Things we've scoffed and swilled
This month a night at Jim Thompson's Pad we camp out at Volupte and have a party at Mango Tree .
Restaurants reviewed last month
Ever indefatigable on your behalf, we've been out eating to sort the Ramsays from the also-rans.
Giardinettos Mayfair. Stylish classic Italian food with twists
Ambassador Islington. Brilliantly crafted cooking at a great price
Octave Covent Garden. Cocktails, fusion food and great jazz
Naked Turtle East Sheen. Music on the menu
Below Zero Soho. Well you can't say it's not cool
The Play Room Soho. A great night out of cabaret, cocktails and supper
Cicada. Clerkenwell. Pan-Asian cuisine in a cool environment
Ubon. Canary Wharf. We try the special offer for you
Lessandro. Kensington. Stylish Italian in chic surroundings
May we as usual take this opportunity to remind you that if a restaurant really gives you a bad time, please talk to them and allow them a chance to explain/make amends before you trash them on the website!
It's Thai Jim, but not as we know it
IWho was Jim Thompson? Some say he was an American who helped build the Thai silk trade, gave sumptuous parties in Bangkok and whose home there is now a museum. Then in 1967 he disappeared mysteriously, or if that sounds like he did a David Copperfield, perhaps we should say that he mysteriously disappeared.
Anyhoo, should he come suddenly marching back out of the jungle with foot long fingernails and dreadlocks to rival the hippest backpacker, he might be a bit surprised at what’s been done in his name. Jim Thompson’s is a small chain of Americanised Thai restaurants, each done up inside to resemble Jim’s legendary house. The emphasis is on quality Thai food with an authentic taste, a laudable aim when so many Thai restaurants are really Chinese ones who simply ladle some extra chilli, coconut milk and lime juice into dishes to make them Thai.
Jim Thompson’s in Putney is a combination of bar and an a la carte restaurant called Thai Pad. Their new menu is designed to showcase wine paired by the glass with Thai dishes and to celebrate the launch they invited journos to come to a dinner hosted by the boys from Bibendum who had chosen the wines. I hesitated about five seconds before agreeing to go along.
It is a bit odd to enter what looks from the outside to be a standard London boozer and then to be suddenly in a Thai bizarre. Bizarre in fact. In the bar part drinkers sit around happily knocking back pints, seemingly oblivious to the oriental surroundings. One old boy looked like he’d sat in his seat throughout the renovations, possibly with the same drink. Out back in the restaurant proper the effect is effective, shuttered windows keeping out genteel Barnes and the aromas of wood and incense (and Thai food) taking over completely.
After some yummy little canapés, including crispy salty and pepper whitebait. which I have never managed to eat – it’s those little black eyes staring up at me I don’t like – the champagne lubricated journos were sat at a long table. The Bibendum boys gave us Chardonnay Organic Vineyards Chilcas, Chile 2003 which went very well with some fine scallops and pumpkin wok fried in a red curry and green peppercorn sauce. Some might argue that it’s a bit of a sin to do much more to a scallop than briefly sear it on both sides, but these were the smaller scallops and their texture went well with the equally sized pumpkin pieces.
On to a whole sea bass baked in a banana leaf for two to share. It was nice to get a whole sea bass for a change and not a fillet and this one was nicely cooked with subtle spicing. The South African Chenin Blanc 2005 was a well chosen partner from the increasingly jolly Bibendum twins, now bobbing up and down to talk about the wines like Ant and Dec on speed.
Then meat, in this case veal osso bucco curry with jasmime rice, served with Thai broccoli with chilli and garlic. Another interesting dish, authentically spiced and partnered by Stump Jump 2004 from Australia. We then enjoyed a sticky Riesling with apple dessert.
You can try the same wines when you visit JT’s with four special feasts priced from £16.95 to £26.95, including a vegetarian option. JT offers a reliable, award-winning, Thai experience and is kid friendly, too with little Bento boxes for tyro gourmets to try.
Volupté - a little bit baroque
The launch of this new bar/lounge at 7-9 Norwich Street was a decadent and interesting affair. Set out over two levels the bar on the entrance floor is quite striking, having a kind of art deco feel about it. You descend to the lower lounge by a similarly art deco style staircase to a subtly lit area decorated in rich deep colours and bold patterns. Volupté have created a haven of decadence in a burlesque style that their customers can relax in and enjoy while they quaff anything from tea to the most serious of cocktails.
For their launch, Volupté offered their guests a range of house cocktails, including a beetroot, chocolate and vodka creation (which was interesting), Champagne and a wide range of other beverages. Glamorous waiting staff in their colourful burlesque style outfits served customers with canapés, oysters and mussels while voluptuous chanteuses sang to entertain us. An amusing and enjoyable evening!
Volupté is worth a visit to experience the atmosphere they have created and if you like burlesque and decadence, you will love it. Take a look.
Mango Tree - a great Thaim had by all
Mango Tree invited us along to what was, in effect, a multifunctional reception, among other things promoting Thai products and business, the product launch for Cape North vodka and supporting action against hunger, a charity combating famine in devastated areas, a real mix. The evening also brought together entertainment that was equally eclectic ranging from Thai dancers and ‘lady boys’ and a fashion show, to a cooking demonstration from Mark Read, the Mango Tree’s head chef.
Champagne, fruity cocktails (made with Cape North, of course) and wine flowed, all very tempting and naturally, we sampled a few! Throughout the evening, Mango Tree’s charming waiting staff brought around interesting canapés while guests strolled around the ample space of the restaurant, looked at the displays, chatted and sipped on champagne and cocktails. The canapés included skewered chicken and prawns, each with a satay sauce, breaded prawns with a sharp tangy dip, piquant chicken and crunchy diced vegetable tartlets, curried vegetable tartlets and battered white fish with a fresh light dip and more. A wide range of interesting flavours to entertain the palate, all beautifully prepared in the Mango Tree’s kitchen. A very pleasant evening and a good ‘advert’ for the Mango Tree’s excellent cuisine!
