Drinking in the Dolomites
‘Our new wine writer, Patrick Pugliese, stylish sommelier at Sartoria spends a relaxing Saturday tasting wine…
Nestled in the Dolomites of Northern Italy is the spectacular wine producing
region of Alto Adige. As you drive North from Verona views of snow capped
mountains fill the horizon and with rolling vineyards flying by the window
you can begin to understand why the Italians fought so gamely for this
little gem of land during the First World War. In fact Alto Adige has a
long history.
Some time ago it was a favoured destination for Austrian emperors on summer
breaks but since 1918 it has been under Italian rule. However, apart from
its natural beauty there is much more on offer, just consider the wealth
of wineries combining Italian passion with renowned German efficiency -
my mouth is watering already!
Each year during the first weekend in April when most people are struggling through the crowds at VinItaly (Italys largest wine fair which is held yearly in Verona), a much more refined event is being run in Alto Adige called Summa. Summa began after Alois Lageder, one of the regions most historic producers, had a vision of passionate winos sampling Italy’s finest drinks at his delightful Tor Lowengang estate. To make the weekend an undoubted success Alois invited some friends. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bruno Giacosa or Silvio Jermann – do these names ring a bell with anyone? Throw into the mix a band of Michelin starred chefs providing food in informal surrounds and a glass of wine with lunch. Not just any old wine; think Conti Costanti Brunello, Boscarelli Vino Nobile Riserva or Giacosa Barbaresco to name three of the 20 wines on offer by the glass.
I think you can imagine the delight I took in sitting with my main course served, glass of wine in my hand, happily soaking up all the of the little details. Apart from the rooms we used for the tasting with their original frescoes and enormous exposed beams there was a magnificent, almost tilting staircase leading up to the rooms. Outside creeping its way around the house is a still active vine, which dates back to the 1600’s. The real masterpiece however lies across the road. Amongst all of this history is one of the world’s most intriguing wineries where mostly local materials are used and energy efficiency was the brief given to the designers. In the barrel room there is a slow rendition of Bach being played, it seems Alois wants his wines to relax. Therefore he installed a sound system, which switches on when the wind blows. The speed of the symphony varies according to wind speed, truly unique - you could spend days wandering around here; unfortunately I only had one afternoon.
Well to the wine! The new release 2005 white wines showed consistent quality across the range, most notable were the delicious Alois Lageder Gewurtzraminer, slight richness on the palate with a pure fruity finish. A Soave San Vincenzo from Anselmi, floral aromas with a fresh minerality. Also interesting was Silvio Jermann’s un-oaked Chardonnay, clean and balanced, unlike most Italian white wines it is sealed with a screw cap.
Stunning reds were in plentiful supply with most Alto Adigean Pinot Noirs from 2002 showing a lot of promise. Keep an eye out for the stunning Pinot Noir Riserva 2002 from Hofstatter, great balance showing some spice, followed by a defined fruit driven finish. For those of you in search of something new, look no further than Lageder’s Lindenberg Lagrein 2003, deep and brooding colour, crunchy intensity, bursting with red fruit flavour. Top billing went to Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2003, hints of pencil shavings on the nose, ripe mulberries and chocolate held together with a solid structure, delicious.
The day has flown by as usual and I am heading back towards Lake Garda, fondly going over the day’s happenings. What will Summa 2007 entail I wonder? Lets just hope that the weather gods shine once again on Alto Adige, helping to produce another crop of world-class wines.
Most of the wines listed above have since been added to the wine list at
Sartoria.
For further information on Alois Lageder visit www.lageder.com
Alternatively for private purchase of Alois Lageder’s wines call Bibendum wine merchants 0207 449 4120
Are you a lover of Italian food and wine???
Why not join Patrick for his next bi-monthly wine dinner at Sartoria Restaurant. On the 23rd of May they will be sampling some of the Veneto’s best wines matched with classic dishes from the region. Dinner costs £60 pp and includes four courses with six matching wines, anyone interested should call 0207 534 7000 to book a table.
