Sketch Lecture Room and Library review by fuzwuzzle
19 June 2007 - Gourmet Rapide lunch
If one has to epitomise Sketch, all you have to do is to stick your head into the toilet. Yes, just in enough to activate the motion sensor that sets off the flush for the latrine (in the guy's toilet at least). Just take in that psychedelic headrush then proceed up the stairs with the maitre 'd and enter grandly into the lecture room and library.
The lunch menu today was in the usual order - canapes: cumin sticks with creamed tuna sauce followed by an assortment of four starters to be eaten in a clockwise direction. Then, a choice of three mains and then a final menage a trois of dessert then ending with a petit fours flourish.
What then is sketch about? As some other reviews below point out, a weird combination of tastes. But then (remember the toilets) , that is exactly what I feel gives sketch its character - electicism, some jarring mixture of tastes yet some sort of unity. If you go to sketch with high hopes of a carravagio or monet, your expectations might be dashed by a full frontal exhibition of Dali or Hirst.
Look at the starters for example - Carrot puree and salmon tortelloni (what I would call the western version of the wonton), pigeon dumpling with grapefruit(woefully small I have to add), custard of rhubarb with broccoli and cauliflower vinaigrette sauce, cucumber and apple jelly with slices of apple and what I think should be gruyere cheese. Not exactly what I would call classic french dishes.
Then mains - skate on a couscous-like mixture (believed to be boulgour cereal) with figs and apricots or shredded braised beef with bak choy, potato dumpling, leek ad reduced wine sauce - once again, a mish-mash of tastes.
Last example, the petite fours and canapes - guiness jelly, and summer fruit jelly among other things
What's the verdict on such a mixture of food? An assault on the tastebuds surely. Absolutely nothing to do with harmony. If one desires harmony, a pret-a-manger BLT should do the trick. Sketch is more of fusion than french. If one needs a further analogy . metaphor, please do visit their rather user-unfriendly website.
That was the blurp on the food, what about service? Well, my partner's and my poor-student look was not lost on the waiters. "Don't worry, the coffee and tea is inclusive" *earnest look* + "Uhm, would you want wine with your lunch? *unsure look*. Well, I have to admit we didn't have the wine but the sparkling water did not come cheap either (most expensive at 10 pound a bottle). But the thing I appreciate was that there was no condescension, only understanding that gourmet rapides inevitably attracts the "creme moindre" of society. Other that that, service was the usual attentive sort you would expect at a place like this.
A short note on the atmosphere - the decor I particularly appreciated, not too overdone but rather stylish. However, it would have been good to have soft music in the background. Just a personal preference
In closing, probably what sketch did well was that it got the real basics of fine dining right (ironically, not achieved sometimes even by the most starry of fine dining establishments). Prompt, attentive and unobtrusive service + dishes out on time + clean, warm and well-presented dishes. A major sticking point? The gourmet rapide is obviously cooked according to available ingredients, half of the dishes did not match the menu description (I did request to keep a copy of the menu which did causes some uncomfortable shuffling). Other than that, if you desire traditional french, go to Le Gavroche. But if you want something other than sainsbury's and got some spare change, you might want to head to sketch, just for that afternoon of pampering.
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Overall rating 
Food 7 | Service 7 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
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