Como Lario review by Bertie Thewes

I spent most of yesterday trying to figure out how I could write to a Swedish friend of mine who bought my wife and I dinner in Como Lario the night before last, and thank him when I should have apologised for suggesting we ever went . I know Italian restaurants are armed to the teeth with efficient waiters who swarm the floors charming the customers and dusting the tables while dishing out food and then gallantly presenting coats to departing diners but here there was a distinct air of snottiness here. It was as if each of them was in such a bait it was a competition to see who could get even grumpier. Not so in many neighbouring Italian establishments. The food...well, standards need to be addressed immediately. Flabby mozzarella on wasted aubergine sandwiching a minute effort of parma ham looked like it might have been made the day before, removed from the fridge and warmed slowly - tasted as one might expect having been tortured like that. Then fegato alla salvia. Now really you oughtn't cock this one up and yet it.... Too thin, not enough butter and the sage? Well, the lack of it really. Vegetables at an extra cost are a bore but can be expected in Chelsea/Belgravia I suppose. They should, however, live up to their grandeur of deserving their own place on the menu, so flobby beans, watery spinach and mashed potatoes that tasted a bit like He Who Mashed [an important job in a commercial kitchen] had either used margerine or that revolting stuff called Swirl [look it up...think school canteens] instead of lots of butter and milk. Just a bit disappointing when it actually should be a doddle for a place like that to come up trumps. Now I will attend to the leter to my friend in Stockholm. One last thing: the wine was good, thank Bacchus.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Overall rating 2 stars
Food 1 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 2 | Value for money 2

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