The Square review by Loving Annie
It is an early Friday evening, just 6:30 p.m., and I get to the restaurant a few minutes before they are ready to seat guests.
A smiling blonde hostess offers a chair opposite the wooden bar, and brings me something to drink while I wait.
It is a modern yet soothing space, with a fresh spray of orchids and pussy willows reflected in the mirror. Cream colored faux-stone flooring inlaid with black marble is underfoot.
The dining room has perhaps twenty generously sized tables, nicely spaced apart. There is a dark herringbone wood floor, and the room will be fashionably noisy later on as well-heeled couples drift in to fill the space.
Recessed halogen lights provide light and leave a feeling of pristine space. They subtly set off cream colored side walls hung with abstract modern paintings, interspersed with dramatic framed beveled mirrors on the back wall.
Gilt silk curtains and sheer shades are by the windows. Decorated half screens cleverly block the sight of the cars passing by, while allowing a demure peek at the building across the street.
The heavy, floor length, gray, square pleated tablecloths are topped by white linen. Wooden upholstered armchairs are more comfortable than they look.
Pink rosebuds in a vase are discreetly placed on each table. The pepper grinder and salt shaker are polished silver. The 'charger' plate has a beautifully decorated modern design on it, flanked by Christofle silverware.
The serving staff is dressed formally in black, wearing ties, and they all seem to have french accents, which may be a prerequisite for a Michelin 2 star restaurant in town.
The sommelier shakes his head in polite dismay as I decline wine, and brings a bottle of Speyside Glenlivet still natural mineral water to the table.
Large rounds of both unsalted and salted butter are brought on glass teardrop shaped dishes. From among four types of warm freshly baked bread that are offered, I choose walnut-raisin (sweet enough to have at breakfast)and a sourdough baguette. Both are light in texture, a nice intimation of things to come.
An amuse bouche is brought, five cunningly shaped, delicious, light, just crunchy enough, morsels of intriguing flavors I cannot identify.
As usual, I am a finicky eater. I have called ahead and begged the Master Chef, Philip Howard, to indulge me. He graciously complies, and we agree on a tasting meal . Let the pleasure begin :)
Each course is brought on a silver platter, a lovely formal presentation of the goodness to follow.
(It is actually beyond good. Read on, and I must warn you that you will be drooling before you are through.)
The first course is white asparagus veloute with cauliflower.
The second course is Scottish smoked salmon offset by tiny potato rounds garnished with chives. The plainness of the potato is a perfect offset for the delicate saltiness of the fish.
The third course is large, fresh green asparagus tips, lightly garnished with Parmesan and watercress, and accompanied by a lightly poached egg cunningly set in a delicate pastry shell. The rich flavor of the egg is an excellent offset against the cool vegetable.
(At this point, I already want to marry the chef, but the waiter regretfully informs me that he already has a wife.)
The fourth course is a garden salad. A tiny, fresh mound of leek hearts, charlotte potatoes, swisschard, artichokes with pickled beetroot, microherbs and dandelion. I squeeze the juice of a half of a lemon over it, and am in heaven.
The fifth course is a single, large poached rock oyster holding in its shell a light curry veloute, coriander, mousseline, and a pomegranate, caper and raisin dressing.
The sixth course is hand rolled farfalle pasta with an emulsion of winter vegetables (cauliflower, onion and green beans) garnished with Parmesan in an amazingly delicious butter sauce.
Once again, the blend of flavors and textures are exquisite. I shamelessly use the rest of my baguette to soak up some of the sauce.
Someone approaches the table, and my hand tightens on my fork, ready to poke anyone who dares to touch the plate. Mine, I think, too delicious, unwilling to give up a single bite to an overly ready busboy. Instead, it is another party of three diners -their hands are safe :)
Steaming hot, fresh mint leaf tea arrives, leaves steeping in the now familiar glass pot. A light golden sugar is in a frosted glass bowl.
The first of a series of desserts is brought.
Vanilla yogurt like none I've ever had (no aftertaste) is layered in a shot glass with rhubarb compote and blood orange foam. Incredibly light, the sour mixes perfectly with the sweet. A donut hole, dusted lightly with cinnamon, again contrasts perfectly with the yogurt. Warm versus cool, airy versus creamy.
The there is the airiest of passion fruit souffles, dusted with powdered sugar. Lime ice cream brings just the right hint of tartness. A coconut dusted meringue adds a hint of texture to offset the light-as-air creaminess of the souffle
Incredibly, there is more, and another small plate is brought.
Chocolate covered orange sticks are the best I've ever tasted, with each flavor distinct and perfect. There are also tiny truffles of some sort, perhaps coffee.
I ask now for hot jasmine tea - it is also perfect. (I'm not overusing the word - it is accurate each and every time)
Then as a finale, 5 lollipops of fresh fruit gellee are served, orange, strawberry, apple, passion fruit and Turkish delight.
The bill comes, and for a meal this extrordinary, at 111 pounds inclusive of everything, it is very reasonable.
I ponder how soon I can return.
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
review comments
Leave a comment
Please note this is to leave a comment on the readers review above.
To review this restaurant please click here
To leave a comment about the review above, please log in or register first.
To review this restaurant please click here
