L'Oranger review by David Sutherland

My reservation had gotten lost between top-table and the restaurant, but the very helpful maitre d' still managed to seat us within minutes of arrival. As every other table was very quickly filled up I think we got lucky. Service was well balanced between attentive and unfussy; the wine suggestions were excellent and well-partnered to the dishes, and cheaper than our initial musings.

We had the menu degustation and, although excellent throughout, make sure you are hungry - every course is both rich and generously proportioned. We had to take a little breather before tackling desert. Fortunately these were light and well-judged after such an extravagant procession of dishes. I still felt stuffed 24 hours later!

Not exactly cheap, but the charming staff, excellent presentation and attention to detail is what fine dining is all about. Next time though, I'll stick to three courses.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Overall rating 9 stars
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8

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