The Zetter Restaurant & Rooms review by Jason Rowe

Laid back, gutsy flavours, hip without being pretenious are all adjectives I would use to describe the restaurant at the Zetter.

Firstly it looks great, open kitchen, long zinc bar big windows. Perhaps a little canteen like, but that works for me.

The wine list was an exciting delight, with some very interesting reginal Italian wines as well as Burgundy style, Rhone Style etc. We chose a rather special salento from Puglia.

The gutsy flavours should not come as a shock as the rstaurant and hotel is owned by the same people as Moro the Moorish Spanish/North African restaurant in Clerkenwell. The menu was very well balanced and seasonal with regional Italian influences. It changes monthly, we visited in September and for starters my parnter and I chose a tomato and saffron based fish stew; and lamb's kidneys on white beans. The food was presented well, extremely well balanced and the kidneys were cooked to perfection.

For main the pizza was tempting, with some ispirational toppings, the pasta dishes with regional Italian inspiration. The chocie of fish limited, but good. We chose sea bream and a lamb dish, both being delicious extremely well cooked and presented.

I refrained from dessert but my partner chose with difficulty (too much tempted her) a pistachio nut tartlet, the pastry being light and filling devine.

We both chose espresso, unfortunately this was the only thing that let down. Ther crema was not thick enough and no tiger skin, but hey I have coffee issues.

The overall experience was great, service was attentive, without being in your face, the food fantastic. Prices reasonable, at £90 for two including wine (@ £30). The atmosphere laid back but full of people who appreciate what the Zetter is trying to acheive. It is already there, the best Italian experience I have had outside Italy, just work on the coffee.

Sunday, November 27, 2005

Overall rating 9 stars
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 9

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