All reader reviews by pmtw

Ristorante Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio started life in Great Windmill Street back in the 1960s, and I was a regular there before and after it moved to Brewer Street. The food was great, with a basic choice of pasta, fish, beef, veal, or chicken, with an excellent selection of vegetables. Always happy with the house wine, I loved going to “Topo’s”. It was fun: the waiters were slick, professional, and cheerful. Whenever we ate anywhere else I’d say, “it was OK, but I wish we’d gone to Topo Gigio”.

As a publishers editor with considerable purchasing power, I was entertained there – my choice – once or twice a week by printers’ representatives between 1969 and 1976. I lunched my father there one Christmas, and at the next table were four printers’ reps entertaining EACH OTHER, such was the popularity of the place! I was able to eat there less frequently after moving to live and work outside London, but I took a family group there one evening in September last year, and we had a wonderful time.

A fortnight ago I had a surprise. The menu has changed: it’s now rather chichi Nouvelle Cuisine with miniscule helpings and a very limited choice. “Can’t I have whitebait?” I cried. “Only if you have it off the bone, sir”, responded my favourite waiter with a twinkle in his eye. Oh, well. My swordfish steak was delicious, but cost £19.50, and couldn’t have weighed a dram over three ounces. My wife, daughter, and prospective son-in-law seemed delighted with their choices, though perhaps a little critical of the Bardolino (I drank beer). But I had the feeling that the end of an era had been reached – like when a new landlord changes the name of your favourite pub.

I had a word with the owner on the way out. Said I remembered his late father from way back. He told me that a grand refurbishment is under way, and that the menu will be extended when they’re fully up and running again next month. But, with a heavy heart, I have to say that I’m not sure I shall be going again.

Monday, August 18, 2008
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 7