All reader reviews by daniel

Le Bouchon Breton

We were given a flyer for Le Bouchon Breton while strolling around Spitalfields market one evening and having already eaten, tucked it away for reading later. A few days later, while deciding what to eat that evening and settling on steak, we decided to give the newest of the redeveloped market's restaurants a go. The approach was a little daunting, the area was deserted, the restaurant upstairs with no clue to what lay ahead. It was a rainy monday night to be fair and even Canteen was only half full. I hadn't done my homework on this one and Le Bouchon was a lot more formal than I was expecting. The dining room is very impressive, but was empty and a little souless. Staff (that outnumbered the diners) pounced on us like they had been starved of things to do, and we felt a little rushed to chose from the (18 page) wine list. The choice was excellent but lacked many affordable choices with no obvious house wines at all. The 40 cocktails mentioned on the flyer were not offered to us and I was starting to wonder what I had let us in for. I had no idea the menu had been created by the people behind le Gavroche and was surprised by the prices. Not what I had expected of a brasserie in Spitalfields market, next to the site of another Wagamama...

But we ordered, and hoped for once, the prices would be justified. I get tired of paying for nice menu descriptions when the the chef can't deliver the goods.

However, I needn't have worried, The food is simply amazing and a lesson to those who overcomplicate or cut corners. The best ingredients, perfectly cooked, and served in an extremely competent manner, albeit perhaps a little stuffily at first.

For the record, we shared a foie gras terrine, had Angus/Charolet ribeye steak frites and a creme brulee. Standard fare, cooked as well as I've ever had them.

So, in conclusion, le Bouchon needs to relax a little, to fit into its surroundings, maybe offer a set menu and a house wine to fill the 150 seats and get some atmosphere. Let more people enjoy some fine, fine french cuisine. Oh, and the toilets are lovely.

Tuesday, October 07, 2008
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 4 | Value for money 6